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I agree with the dork. I got into homebrewing because I was interested in learning the process, and also because I was on a limited budget and thought "if I learn how to make beer, I can drink more for less money!" Then I got hooked and spent a lot of money upgrading equipment... Oh well. Now...

I use Maris Otter for lawnmower beers. You can crank out 4% beers that still have awesome malt character. 3.5% shouldn't be a problem either.

This is exactly correct. The flavor from the hop oils binds with the glycosides in the wort, essentially "locking" them into the wort. Since they are now chemically bonded to the wort and are no longer in their original form, boiling the wort doesn't burn them off like it normally would...

If you're looking for hop flavor, read up on first wort hopping. Throwing your hops in as the wort is heating up (pre-boil) will give you massive hop flavor, as well as the same amount of IBU'S as if you added them at the 60 minute mark. Keep in mind, a high alpha variety like magnum might not...

So damn jealous.

Honestly, you're probably better off using distilled water if you don't have a chemical analysis of your tap water. That way you can add equal weights of CaCl and gypsum and know for sure that your water is in balance. It's not a matter of preference between the two, it's a matter of...

http://www.puretap.com/ph.htm It's a semi interesting read, but all of my results are based on actual trial and error. Granted, I'm using ph strips (which I've heard can have a +-.2, so I'm shooting for "ballpark results"), but I couldn't figure out why every mash I did measured way too...

If you're brewing with RO water, your pH will be too low already. I brew exclusively with RO water and have to add 5-6 grams of baking soda to my mash water just to raise it to the 5.2 range(and that's with light colored base malts...darker malts are more acidic and would lower the mash ph even...

14.1% is good, but one ounce may not be enough. It depends on your pre-boil gravity, which affects the utilization and isomerizarion of the alpha acids. I would recommend getting a brewing software like Beersmith or iBrewApp that can be used to estimate your IBU's based on the parameters of...

What's the alpha % of your hops? If you're going for a hoppy beer, you'll want a BU:GU of around 1. If you're not familiar with how this ratio works, there are threads describing it in detail. Basically, the ratio of IBU'S to Original Gravity points for an IPA should be around 1:1. If you...

Indeed. Now Dustin Brown will hit him in the knee and bring an early end to his first season, the way he did to Tomas Hertl after he scored 4 goals against the Rangers. Any Kings fans watch the Sharks beat them again last night? That Jonny Quick sure has a short temper! And you know what...

If you want to increase hop character in your beer, I recommend First Wort Hopping(FWH). It's simple, just throw your bittering hop addition into the kettle while the Wort is still heating up(before it reaches a boil). All the wonderful flavor of your bittering hops will bind to the glycosides...

You need to calculate your OG (aka Gravity Units, or GU) and base your target IBU's(aka Bitterness Units, or BU) on this. The actual ratio is BU:GU. Example: If your OG is 1.050(50GU) and your recipe calls for 25 IBU's(25BU), the ratio would be 25:50, or 0.5 Bitterness units per Gravity...

Another SJ brewer here, with groundwater. Frustrated over the lack of detail in our water report, I've resorted to using RO water for mashing. Our water sucks anyway, but now I'll study your findings and see if the water is useable now!