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I followed my standard Pils recipe with the slight deviation of adding 10mL of 85% Phosporic as well as splitting the batch with one using Hornidal yeast and the other my standard go to W-34/70 for giggles and Yooper I think you nailed it, with the acid addition creating the lower mash pH the...

Curious if others have been trying this and their experience with it. I have used it three times, once with an IPA, once with a raw NEIPA and once with a lighter ale. The IPA and Raw NEIPA turned out awesome, super clean, super fast, fermented at 85F-ish, couldn't ask for anything more...the raw...

Thanks Yooper. I think you may have answered a lingering question I had, when I first tried a pils it was good but the hops (Spaltz) flavor was much more astringent than I was anticipating, next go round I counter balanced this by adding my hops addition with only 20 mins, 5 mins and WP as...

0.50ppm didn't even register to me as potentially being high for Iron but upon a little research looks like I am in the mid acceptable range. Thankfully I have never tasted metallic or blood notes (unlike when I lived in N. MI very pronounced metal taste in the water) and definitely no staining...

Interestingly enough, I put in my water profile and Pils recipe into BrewersFriend and in my recipe I was already adding 2 tsp gypsum "just because" and other than pH theoretically being 5.78 everything else was deemed in the normal range for the style. Next go round per BF if I add 10mL of...

Thanks for sharing Duff, that's pretty slick, definitely something I will play around with in the future!

Appreciate the feedback. From what I can gather looks like my residual alkalinity is around 86ppm or using Kolbach's 1.78 mEq/l yielding a 0.148 pH shift, so next time I do an American Pils and target a RA of -50 looks like for my 14gals of mash 9g of Epsom salt, 9g CaCl2 and 8.5mL ish of 85%...

Thanks RPh. With your tap water and not altering it what did you experience? From what I can gather, having higher alkalinity can lead to lower efficiency and increased chance for pronounced tannins/other harsh flavor and potential inhibition of yeast metabolism, am I missing anything else...

Hi All, I never thought much about water except in our last house which was on a municipal system and treating for Chloramines but as I am continuing in my brewing journey and the seemingly constant chatter of additions and water manipulation surrounding NEIPA’s and Pales I figured it was time...

I have gone from grain to glass in 96 hours with the Omega's, esp. at higher temps, the first 24 hours is usally like a rocket then it drops fast. My guess is its done its job.

Aeration. Gave it up hundreds of gallons ago and no detrimental effects observed. Next would be starters. Just dropped 2 tbs of harvested Hornidal (third gen) into a blonde for giggles and 7 hours later the airlock was rockin.

YES I HAVE! I am currently enjoying my third NEIPA batch with this method (No boil, no chill, no aeration) with outstanding results (zero DMS detected) but as you alluded to, if you whirlpool at the 170 ish range and leave it in the fermenter it will have a more pronounced IBU bite vs...

Thanks RL, answers everything! Appreciate it.

Yes, the Pils in the Corny has been carbed and I sanitized the Sixtel. Any sugestion on pressurizing the Sixtel...do I hit it with 12psi of CO2 prior to the transfer attempt and then just crack open the gas valve on the fill coupler to offgas while I transfer (at 3-4psi)? Thanks...

Need some insight from those of you with an aptitude for Physics! I have a carbonated Pils in a Corny (doubling as a bright tank since I added gelatin) that I need to transfer over to a sixtel as a thank your for a friend (I just bought an American Keg Co, my first venture with Sanke’s), I came...

Brother I applaud you if you adhere to LODO methods and it has improved your beers. Personally (hence the title of this thread) it is the opposite direction of my brewing philosophy and feel that an individual can make some killer brews in a more simplistic manner but that is just me. I...

Fair enough. We could debate the first two but I will completely agree with you on your third point. It concerns me esp. with real hoppy brews. In thinking about this I was meaning to add a gas port to my Anvils so I guess if did actually get around to doing it I could add a blanket of CO2 to...

I only mentioned the plate as point of reference that years ago I did chill my worts in the more traditional sense, not implying you use one or don't take sanitation serious but humor me, what are the other issues associated with no chill that you have concerns with? Promise, you could bash no...

I have experimented a little bit along these lines... 1 - After flameout waiting a few minutes and adding my hop load to the kettle, waiting 30 mins and then directly into the fermenter. 2 - Wort (after flame out) into the fermenter, wait until wort is around 170 (takes a couple hours) add hop...

I have used a plate in the past and in my opinion there is more of a risk of not properly sterilizing that vs near boiling wort going directly into a SS fermenter that I sprayed down with Starsan but that is just me. I feel I have my process dialed in, knock on wood and more liver damage than I...