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When you make 5 gallons of wort are you measuring out 5 gallons of water and then adding the extract?

I would follow the advice that everyone has given so far. I would add myself that you should think first of yeast health when making this first batch of lager. Build up the starter, use quality nutrients in the starter and in the beer and ferment on the warm side. Then you will have a...

This one turned out very well... BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: Beisl Bier Brewer: Cellarbrau Asst Brewer: Style: Vienna Lager TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 29.31 l Post Boil Volume: 25.81 l Batch...

How often do you find a beer that has within a reasonable shelf life, say 6 months, become unpleasantly oxidized? Which are the worst offenders? Which are the best?

We keep all the good stuff for ourselves, eh?

I'd be more choked about the clean up than losing some wort. Fermcap does stratify and the liquid on top won't be effective. Try shaking up the bottle and using it again. Shake it again before each use.

If it was me I would drop the Tower of Power and plan a good fermentation area with more than 1 fermenter. Also, Blichmann Burners are so good and reasonably priced I don't know why you would use anything else.

plastic + more plastic = less plastic :confused:

Did it last weekend. An easy thing to do is to search for for a "typical analysis" for your brand of malt. Sometimes they outright tell you what % of the grist you can use it for. If not, "DP" or diastatic power > 40 is required. http://countrymaltgroup.com/greatwestern.asp

Hey! I remember this thread. Still disagree. In fact I'll be dumping a couple half full, oxidized kegs to make room for fresh beer. "If you see a beer, do it a favor, and drink it. Beer was not meant to age." -Michael Jackson

The only pertinent question hasn't been asked. What kind of beers do you want to make?

I'm the opposite of Golddiggie. I keg it up as soon as I hit TG. Less footprint in the fridge and no air exposure. If I'm dryhopping, lagering, or fining I will transfer keg to keg once that is done. Conditioning at room temperature is just letting it get older. Conditioning should be at...

Your beer will be more bitter and less aromatic. You could add dry hops to regain the aromatics but you can't reduce the bitterness.

I've done 20 minute boils (extract lager) up to 120 minute boils (barleywine). For "normal" beers I always do 70. I could try 50 and keep pushing it until I notice a difference but that would mean recalculating everything and using more hops so i won't bother.

Assuming master Revvy is correct, the problem is still oxidation. It's hard to drink 60-70 beers at peak freshness if that period is only a week. Limiting oxidation is key to good homebrew. Racking your beer into the priming solution could be a good practice. It will mix and you don't...

What temperature are you storing the bottles at and how much sediment is there in the bottom? In 3 months you would surely notice haze, thinness or increased carbonation in an infected bottle. You seem very thorough, so I doubt you'd skim over a detail like that. Oxidized is a difficult...

I have top mashed and decoction mashed with a batch sparge. The mash and the lauter are really two completely seperate processes.

It's a lesson learned anyways. You will certainly be able to recognize the effect of gypsum on the taste of beer!

Yes. For my taste, a tablespoon into 5 gallons is lots and my water is very low in minerals to begin with.

How is that comment negative? Quite the opposite I think.