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I agree. The CIP created more work; not less.

BIAB is a good option. Very simple to learn. The other way is an all in one all grain electric brew system. There are a number of them just make sure you get a 220v version.

I had a similar experience with mine & got a small fan on Amazon. It works great to even out temps. It is small enough that I can still get two corny kegs in.

I buy from Morebeer. Great service. I live in PA & I get my supplies from their PA site.

I typically get 10-11 kegs before I have refill. I check for leaks about once a week I replace post o-rings every time I refill a keg & check the regulator for any leaks. If you have relieving regulator make sure it’s not relieving all the time.

Nothing comes out of the perforations on the bottom sides of the tun when draining. It has to do with the physics of the design.

That’s a discussion on fermentation. This was about strike temp , mash in, & maintaining temp for creating a wort. This equipment is made for repeatability.

Neoprene jacket yes/no. Yes HED yes/no. Yes BT probe yes/no. Yes Temperature hysteresis setting. 1.0f Temperature differential setting. 1.0f Pump power setting. 100% Angle of ball valve or flow rate. 8 0’clock position. Change as required. Heat power setting. 65-70 percent PID on/off. Off...

For the Brewzilla the HED (heat exchanger), & the Bluetooth thermometer. This combination provides better control of temps for your mash. I have been very happy since I added these two items. They are inexpensive.

Are trying to buy one or the other?

Stick with Brewzilla. I have a number of people trying to figure out how it works. If you’ve got a Brewzilla. Work through the learning curve. Both units have learning curves. What do you need to know?

Brewing today. I am 30 min into it. I have been on a mash temp of 153. The range of my temps have been within +\-1 f. With 20 min at 153. Just checked again and I’m 153.4 & holding.

Thanks. It works great. It does not mean that you cannot looking at lower temps. It just means that the repeatability starts to drop in those ranges.

Something I forgot to mention. Because we are trying to get the best repeatability on our beers I looked at the sensor on the base of these units. Repeatability is the key to temp control. The sensor on the base of the unit can be keyed into what we do in homebrew. Look at the low calibration...

I also am no newbie. I have the 35l version & found it to have a large learning curve. I brew all the time and each batch presents its ow challenges. I have had good success with the HED & Bluetooth thermometer. I have to note that I also use a precision analogue thermometer to read to the...

Everything works great with these settings. With the Bluetooth probe, HED, an a precision analogue thermometer as as verification probe I can keep track of temperature differentials very easily and adjust temperature and recirc accordingly to fine tune the brew session Everything settles in...

Neoprene jacket yes/no. Yes HED yes/no. Yes BT probe yes/no. Yes Temperature hysteresis setting. 1.0f Temperature differential setting. 1.0f Pump power setting 65-70 depending on variables Angle of ball valve or flow rate. Approximately 60% Heat power setting. 65-70 PID on/off. Off Ambient...

Neoprene jacket yes/no. Yes HED yes/no. Yes BT probe yes/no. Yes Temperature hysteresis setting. 1.0f Temperature differential setting. 1.0f Pump power setting 65-70 depending on variables Angle of ball valve or flow rate. Approximately 60% Heat power setting. 65-70 PID on/off. Off Ambient...

I’m brewing tomorrow & I’ll let you know.

I had many problems with the last firmware update. I had to go into my controls & reset to my original settings. Until I did this I was unable to get a stable temp setting form my mash with the Bluetooth probe. I lost that brew session on my 35l unit. Hard lesson to learn.