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Not that I noticed. My fermenter is opaque, though, so I can only go by the line of scum that you see after it is emptied.

Another vote for M21. True Belgian taste without being 'over the top estery'

My oatmeal stout brewed back in May is currently tasting better than ever, so definitely give it time to mature. Recipe tweaks you could try might be dark malt extract instead of Pilsner and an English ale yeast such as Nottingham. Cheers!

This is great stuff! Getting back to coins as weights, UK readers may be interested to know that 20p=5grams, 50p=8grams and £2=12grams. I use these all the time with my old fashioned balance scales for weighing hops. I have the European version of your Klarstein kit by the way, 240volts with...

I use a similar method to 'Hotbeer' and don't get problems. Keep the amount of headspace in the bottles consistent and this will help you get even carbonation. I find I always get more sediment in the last few bottles so I mark the caps of these and use them first.

In 'Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy' (1978 edition), Dave Line gives 3 methods of mashing a 5 gallon all grain brew. The first 2 involved mashing in the kettle with kind of basic temperature control and transferring to the grain bag before sparging. The third (which I used) was mashing in a...

Hi @BrewnWKopperKat My copy of The Bigger Book of Brewing long since fell to pieces but I can tell you that the ISBN number for 'Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy' is: 0 900841 51 6 It is certainly an interesting read for anyone interested in the history of home brewing although the style of it...

Like dtashmore547 I am an old timer; started brewing around 1977. I can confirm what he says about Dave Line using the Brew in a Bag method. He just didn't call it that. I still have a copy of his 'Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy' published in 1978 by the Amateur Winemaker Publications...

When you've had a few beers in the pub and the barman offers you a crate of 24 empty swing top half litre bottles..... and you lug them home on the late night bus much to the amusement of fellow passengers!

This is a different James Morton. I believe he's a (medical) doctor who has also written books about baking. I am not a brewing scientist, I quoted his book in good faith and 'bow to your greater knowledge' as the saying goes!

I read this in James Morton's book 'Brew'. He says that the old yeast can produce 'markers' that tell the new yeast to flocculate prematurely. This is an excellent book for beginners and experienced home brewers so I have no reason to doubt what he's saying.

Yes. Not a good idea to mix two types of yeast. Leave as much of the old stuff behind as you can. You will lose a couple of litres more than if you racked off the yeast just once but it's better than ditching the lot. Also, I forgot to say use the whole sachet of Safale 05. Good luck.

Agreed. Answer to both questions is no. Try to leave behind as much of the old yeast as possible. Re-wet your Safale 05 and pitch it at the same temperature as the brew or slightly cooler. Let the fermentation progress as normal and bottle with your usual amount of priming sugar.

Had same problem last week also here in UK, solution was to rack the brew off the yeast into a clean bucket and re-pitch with an attenuative dry yeast, Mangrove Jack's M42. Gravity fell from 1.021 to an acceptable 1.015 in 5 days. My OG was 1.054, English Pale Ale. Brew temperature at 19C. Ready...