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the priming sugar table in post 4 looks a bit heavy to me - I use less than half those rates.

Clint - most amusing second paragraph.

I cool the wort and then jug it into a stainless steel saucepan with lid, measure the OG and pitch my hydrated safale 04 yeast, after 5 to 7 days I bottle and leave for 4 weeks, works for me but what do I know, I have only been brewing for 54 years.

google commercial fish kettles.....

do you know anybody who works in any sort of laboratory - they will have a master calibration thermometer, just put yours next to it for 0 20 40 60 80 100

I am a BIABer. I thought about lifting the bag, allowing it to drain. Then I acquired a second Burco. So I run off the liquid and use 4 litre jugs to fill number 2, and then boil. There is always some very fine solids left in the mash vessel - using the lift and drain approach would mean boiling...

wash your glass under the hot tap, cool it under the cold tap, shake to remove excess water, do not use a tea towel or similar. This will tell you if the problem is with your beer, or the bottles you bottle it in. After cleaning your bottles normally, rinse them under the hot tap. This will tell...

I find vitamin C useful in yeast starters - years ago I made 2 identical starters and added vit C to one - it definitely got going quicker - so OP was saying slow to get going - so I said add vit C and nutrient - but if recommended amount of nutrient already added don't bother....

add 5 gm of vitamin C and 10 gm of nutrient

in Uk all one word but I should have guessed ty

baby ?

At the end a little bit of baking soda is added to neutralise the acid. why neutralise acid, then add acid - I use 5 gm citric acid, a kilo of sugar, and 200 ml of bottled water.

in UK , my supplier marks all hop packs with year of harvest and use before date.. the-home-brew-shop.co.uk and they ship to USA....

beervoid, at end of fermentation they are both off, in opposite directions, make a sugar solution at 1.005, measure it with both instuments, then add 5% vodka, repeat both measurements - discuss....

children, be nice to one another..........

RM - ok - my experience as stated using crown caps, screw tops and flip tops...

my experience is, if you leave it in FV more than a week, there is not enough active yeast in solution to carb up bottles........

at least 20 years with PET bottles, before then 2 pint cider bottles with bakelite screw in stoppers. Honestly, the only change is very fine crush on my last 25 kg bag of pale malt, same strengths, same yeast, same hops, same sugar - thanks all for trying.......

hotbeer the present issue is PET bottles are not firming up as they usually do

ncbrewer - glasses and jugs are rinsed in hot water after use and before use - never dishwasher - never tea towel ( a thin cotton towel used to dry stuff after washing up) = (hot water and liquid soap in a bowl for washing glasses plates cutlery after a meal)