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This is in my garage separate from the house. Thanks, it was a lot of work. Unistrut does make it easier.

That's a genuine Brew Thru mini-skirt I used to wear before my figure went to hell! 😂

Thanks, it does make it a little easier!

Just 8, the other 2 are wine. It's taken me over 15 years to get all of this stuff together.

I finally have my kitchen/ brewery back together after painting it from the awful Florida Beige. I've got everything but the sink and stove on casters and added some unistrut to the ceiling to help move full fermenters and kegs.

I've found that most times that the pressure in the keg drops close to serving pressure overnight, you can leave the gas line off and let the excess pressure push the beer out or vent it with the prv. I've got 2 CO2 tanks so I use one for the keezer and the other for purging / carbing usually. I...

It's how I've been carbing my beer since I started kegging. I cold crash in the fermenter rack to a purged keg with the gas line back to the fermenter and the beer going in the out post, then 30 psi into the diptube and rock it back and forth on it's bottom. I put it back in fridge and hit it...

If you can get it welded that's definitely the way to go.

I don't think it will be a problem, I've got one in my kettle and it's not going anywhere. I would think there'd be more expansion and contraction going from room temperature to boil and back than room temp to cold crash temps.

Tri-clamp fittings a Brew America mash hydrometer and a R.O system.

The indicator light that I have is rated for 110v that's why I tried it on the pulsed leg to ground. I wired it to both hot legs and it's working. At least I know that my GFCI breaker is working. Thanks for the help.

There's a 5000k btu A/C unit in the other end so no humidity and I keep it around 68F. I got the freezer for free and had it working and painted when the compressor quit, not to be deterred I gutted it and mounted a free a/c unit. I can get it down into the low 50 before it starts freezing up.

I just got 125 lbs of grains yesterday, 2 row, pilsener, wheat and Munich. I store it in buckets and vittle vaults in my fermentation chamber. I've heard if you put hand warmers in the sealed buckets it sucks all of the O2 out and suffocates the critters.

I had just upgraded to a dsrp320 and installed a couple of contactors after the SSR's so I had a little thinking to do. I have a new element coming anyway, cheap receptacle on my cord would work loose and barely make contact with the element lugs and overheated. I think I finally have it dialed...

Ok, it's not the element, I installed a new LED indicator light for the 240 element by attaching one wire to the pulsed leg from the SSR and the other to ground at the receptacle because it's a 110v light. I guess it's enough to trip the breaker. So back to my 24v indicator light.

My receptacle end of my cord overheated and I replaced it and brewed with it. This morning as soon as I switched on the element it tripped the GFCI breaker. I checked continuity between the ground lug and the line lugs and it's Infinite, line lugs to the kettle also shows infinite. Ground lug to...

A hundred and twenty pounds of malt, new indicator lights for my controller and a bunch of TC fittings for my new Spike flex.

I've got a 64 qt Bayou Classic pot and I silver soldered my fittings instead of weldless fittings. I got most everything from Bobby at BrewHardware.com. It's going on 2 years with no leaks or cracks.

I've got a 400 micron Brewbag and I crush my grain at .015 so it's pretty much flour and I don't have any problems recirculating unless I'm using flaked grains and running my pump flat out. I've got a 16 gallon Bayou Classic pot with their false bottom. My 200 micron bag wouldn't let me...

When I built my system my mash temps went too high and I ended up with a bunch of unfermentable sugars. It stopped fermenting after dropping 10 or 25 gravity points. I added some Glucoamylase to it and it fermented dry 1.000 in a few days. Your mash temps were at the upper limits of the enzymes...