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Re-reading How to Brew at the moment as I'm with an injury. Palmer says that thermodynamically that it's actually better to add the water to the grains rather than the other way around. He also points out that doing it that way can cause dry spots & dough balls. So the better method is adding...

I have a 12k btu window unit Carrier Koolking - has anyone modified it to work as cooling unit for lagering or walk-in cooler (I might have a lot of beer).

Just following this up, racked the beer into a keg 2 days ago. As I mentioned before, it's fairly dry with not a lot of body. Definitely not a disaster by any means though. Very drinkable and it's kind of grown on me, even with the mild banana undertones that I'm not generally a fan of.

Got lazy and bought a 2 tap kegerator from Bestbuy and I want to have my CO2 and regulators outside of the unit rather than inside. There is a provision for a single hose on the back of the kegerator but I'm wondering if anyone has added a second hose hole? And if so, where did they locate it...

On my DIY Kegerator, I just used a firewall grommet that I bought from an auto parts store. That way the hose won't chaffe.

WLP840, fortunately I have my brewing in the shop. It produced a lot of rotten egg smell.

WLP840.

Thank you! I wasn't sure if I had passed the point that DR would be useful.

Thanks! I appreciate your input. I'm hoping this turns out as well as my first blonde ale - which in my conceited and biased opinion was perfect!

This is my first attempt at making a lager. Brewed 11 days ago and was expecting 2 weeks of fermentation before doing the rest, checked the SG today and it's 1.007 (OG was 1.047). Tasted the sample, dry, thin body with a hint of sulphur taste.

Thanks! Our tap water is quite low in dissolved solids, the only wrench in the works is what public works adds to make the water safe to drink out of the tap.

Actually, the question was regarding whether it was better to calibrate to the actual water being used vs distilled.

Old, but relevant post to a question I had regarding refractometer calibration. Sure hope this isn't the oldest one ever drug up from the depths!

I must apologize, I left out some key information.

Just to be clear, no. They all have the same problem. The bulkhead for the valve OTOH is pretty straight forward. I suppose I could use a bulkhead fitting for the well too, but I’m pretty averse to adding extra leak points if I can avoid it.

I apologize, here is a link with an explanation of barrel types. https://usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=703 The issue isn’t which well to use, because they all have the same problem. I’m using a closed head. Access is pretty difficult. How the heck do I install it? FWIW...

Sorry, but I asked how to install, not what.

I guess I should have been more succinct, I already have a thermo-well that I no longer need and I want to use it for my closed head fermenter build instead.

I’m in the process of building a 15 gallon fermentation vessel using a plastic closed head barrel. I want to add a bottom valve bulkhead, which is easy enough. It’s the temp well that’s proving to be difficult to plan out since there isn’t a through hole. Edit to clarify. The themowell...

Thanks! I was wondering about the solar pumps, I just picked up 2 of them for this project.