Search results

So the third wire on the thermistor should be on the same terminal as the wire going to ground on the BCS?

I'm in seriouse need of help here. I have now connected the black and white wire from the thermistor probe to the female plug in picture. On the panel side going to the BCS I have terminal 1 going to BCS probe input and terminal 2 going to ground on BCS. I have all temps showing but when I...

Picture

Probably been posted before but I can't find anything. I have a temp probe with a black and white wire that I need to solder to a xlr. The xlrs on my control panel are 2 x red on 1 and 3 going to bcs 462. Silver goes to ground on BCS. Question. Does the white and black go to 1 and 3 and...

I did see those after I went and bought the junction boxes from ebrew. I can always upgrade in the future but I have them now. The holes are going to be 1 1/4 for the elements so that's not an issue with changing the housings later. I really would like to go for the weldless triclover fittings...

That was one of the hardest things for me to work out. I'm on 240v here in oz so it was pretty easy to run a 16mm twin cable and throw in a 63 amp RCD That cost about $200 for the cable and rcd. Then it's just the extra contractors and other elements. Possibly 1000 bucks more to go the 4 element.

That was my thinking. I didn't want to be waiting around for hours while the kettle came up to a boil. I'm hoping for 15 min to come to boil. Waiting for temps to rise is why brewday drag out. Cost a little more to go 4 element but worth it I think.

Never thought of sagging elements. Thanks Brundog!

They are 30 gallon ss brewtech kettles. I have float switches. I thought having the elements at the back of the kettle at 45 deg would be more aesthetic to the eye and keep the cables neat and tidy but happy for any other input?

Hi Guys, I'm at the point where I am installing the ebrew supply 5500 watt ripple ulwd elements in my kettle and HLT. So 2 elements in each kettle. 4 elements total. Has anyone got any suggestions as to where to mount each element? I was thinking if I go 45deg from the back of the...

Hi Brundog, Would you mind posting a link of your Propertioal valves please? Also, would it be possible to run your controller without removing the BCS? So just switch between both yours and BÇS? Already have the 12v power supply and really like the idea of the proportional valves...

So it looks like it's going to be quiet difficult to accomplish a full auto system. I don't mind going manual for fly sparging. As long as my volumes/gravs are spot on its all good. Will it even be worth while using dc valves? Why do people use them In this case? Just to mash or?

I see. The issue is that my 30 gallon mash tun will be full for full volume higher gravity beers. Most likely making this process redundant.

Wicked setup Brundog. Can you give an update on your system. I'm currently building a 3v herms full electric 30 gallon system I have bought a bcs and will have 4 x 5500w elements. Just thought if I only had 2 it would take forever to heat 100 litres to a boil. Look forward to seeing how...

Great info, thanks. One thing in pretty stuck on is being able to get crystal clear wort into the brew kettle. Do you sacrifice that when you dump all your sparge water on your mash? I'm just set on fly sparing. I've had a braumeister for years so I've never been able to have clear wort when...

Im in the process of building a 30 gal 3v herms full electric brewery controlled by a bcs 462. Im going to use DC ball valves but I cant find much info on how or if people fly sparge with the bcs? Should I leave 2 manual ball valves for fly sparging or is there a way to get around this...