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I appreciate that and I try to help as much as possible. I've learned most of this on my own through having the privilege of working at several breweries, a distributor, and a homebrew shop. Long story short, I wish I had someone with my current knowledge base I have now to help me back then haha.

Sorry for my delayed response, it seems like @LoneTreeFarms already answered most of your questions for me. I apologize for not being more detailed, as I mentioned previously I brew professionally so I have grown accustomed to more of a "short hand" then proper written recipes. Similar to how...

I make a shandy frequently, long story short I do the following: Brew a 4 gal (yes, 4 gal. I'll explain later) blonde or a wheat (usually wheat) either all grain or extract (usually extract), shoot for an OG between 1.040-1.045, hops at 60 + flame with a varietal that emphasizes the lemon flavor...

Happy to help! I don't have a chance to jump on here everyday but when I do I'm usually at the brewery so feel free to pick my brain.

I will admit that my first couple brews following that method resulted in slightly lower preboil grav then expected, which is common of full volume mash BIAB brewing. I also will admit that following this method I had to keep my OG sub 1.070 in order to fit everything. One thing I started doing...

As long as your extract is fresh, you follow the late DME addition guideline by holding most for flameout, and keep your ibu in check then there is no reason you shouldn't be able to produce a drinkable beer with that recipe. I personally would suggest s04, you'll have a clearer final product...

I should have added, I lived for 3 years in a small 600+/- sq ft apartment when I first moved to FL that had a very small electric oven with top burners. I was forced to brew nothing more then 1 gal batches as this stove had trouble keeping even 2 gal at a rolling boil. With that being said, I...

Does it have to be LME? I always advocate DME vs LME. Better flavor and easier to weigh and store plus longer shelf life if stored properly. If you have a small kitchen scale you could always weigh out several separate small containers at a few ounces a piece. If you have a small package...

Well said and something that many people forget when they start to overthink things. Even for me on the commercial/professional brewing side, I have encountered many pro brewers who lose their mind if their post boil gravity is low by 0.001 and will try to do quick math for very small DME...

It's been awhile since I bottle conditioned but I found my sweet spot to be at least 3 weeks for sub 7% abv and at least 4 weeks for 7% abv and above. With that, I just started running 4 weeks across the board and never again found an under carbed bottle.

Looks normal, I wouldn't be worried. Worst case scenario your yeast will ferment the puree slightly increasing your alcohol but not by any major degree and you wont get as much flavor from the puree because the yeast will dry it out.

yeah, this. It can almost become a fun puzzle sometimes. Where it can get confusing (almost frustrating) is for guys like me who are professional brewers, if we want to register a recipe and/or enter a brand into a national competition like GABF we need to have it match as closely to the BJCP...

I've frequently used Vienna in place of base malt and always loved the result. You could potentially get away with "Marzen Style Ale" or even Altbier. The easiest way is to pull up BJCP guidelines and cross reference the specs (abv, ibu, srm, etc) as well as the described flavor profile in...

Easiest and quickest way is to purchase a kit you like the flavor of first. Next, add roughly 50% extra hops to all boil additions and double the dry hop. Finally add additional DME at flame out to boost gravity. You can use brewing software to help with calculations or your LHBS rep should...

I agree on using it for starters though you may want to use it only for low grav starters requiring minimal DME just to help keep that flavor behind. If you try to brew with it I would suggest saving as much of it as you can for a flame out/post boil addition as boiling it will only...

Also, check out Brewer's Clarex (or the diluted homebrew version "Clarity Ferm"). We do not filter our beer in our brewery but we do use S04 english ale yeast so if kegs sit a few weeks they collect sediment at the bottom. We did not want to implement filtration due to the bready profile of...

Well the answer to this is really the same back and forth that has been going on with this thread the entire time: Yes, your final product would technically have higher viscosity then a more fermentable wort which would equate to a thicker mouthfeel in the finished beer. However... Most people...

Get a sight glass, run it inline, dump beer until your wort is clear then run into your keg. You may end up with a slightly short keg... this will just show you how much you were picking up before. You also could get really fancy like we do on the commercial side and run a T off your racking...

One of my favorite recipes I've made is an Oatmeal Session stout, starts around 1.040 and ends around 1.010. About 25-30% of the grist is made of a combination of c90, black malt, chocolate malt, carapils, and flaked oats and the remaining 70-75% being 2 row base with the mash being a single...

I'll have to agree (as usual) with @mabrungard For me and my extensive testing, A long boil, let's say 70+ mins or anything more then the "standard" 60 mins, has only helped in two areas: 1) This really helps to drive out off-flavor precursors in all-grain beers to prevent things like DMS and...