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You are correct that is the current setup i have for heating now. And cooling i have it in my keezer but i want to use my keezer for finished kegs. So im trying to set it up with the temp twister to heat and cool outside of a fermentation chamber. That way i can have multiple batches fermenting...

Currently fermzilla all rounder.

As much as required but a good yeti cooler should keep it quite a while. Its only maintaining temperature i cant imagine once i get it to fermentation temps that it would even be on a whole lot. I live in michigan so at the moment im more interested in the heating side rather then the cooling.

I was going to turn a closet into a temp controlled fermentation chamber. But im thinking of going another way now and wondering if anyone else has done it. What i want to do is use temptwister cooling coils for obviously the cooling but it occured to me i may be able to do heating as well with...

Yes i will be brewing multiple batches. Also not just for fermenting ill be lagering as well. Have a dopplbock that i plan to lager for at least 10 weeks. Im going to split the closet so i can keep one side for lagering other for fermenting all will be run off of one AC with a temperature...

Still not big enough for more then 1. I appreciate the reply but it seems i have found my answer with the CoolBot controller.

8-10

The chest freezer isnt going to work i have 13 gal fermzilla conicals they stand about 3 1/2 ft tall on the stand. Could you point me in the right direction as far as a controller? from what i have been told an ac unit wont get me too much below 60.

Im looking for advice. I have a small closet 4ft x 4ft in my garage i was thinking about insulating the hell out of it and turning it into a fermentation chamber. But what id really like to do is be able to get it down to 32 deg for lagering . Im not sure how to get it there though i dont...

Here are a couple pictures of the tri clamp fittings I went with a 2 pc NPT ball valve as the tri clamp ball valves are a little on the pricey side. I still have to put the hole in the side for the sample valve ferrule and weld that in and obviously still alot of cleanup and polishing to do as...

Nope sure didn't just didn't have the time to do it and then had a baby so been pretty busy with all that just now getting back to it. And I will say I will not be selling these as it may only cost me $300 to build but including time and the fact that I've gotten deals on materials and getting...

Also for all those who are interested the next project is a 20 gallom electric Brew kettle. That one should be realitivly simple compared to this one.

I know this thread is old now had to put the project off for a while and was procrastinating getting back to it. I have started work on this again for all those who are interested in the progress of it I will be posting pictures of the progress as it is made. I have ordered the fittings and I am...

Just to clarify.

While you may be right about being able to get 2 15" cones with a 60° angle out of one 30" circle i disagree with it being more efficient. The cones i am using can be cut from a piece of material 24" x 16" so to get 2 i would need a piece 24" x 32" and a full sheet comes in at 48" x 96" so i can...

Lol see i wasnt lieing the reason i said 55 is because at first i was going to go with a 10" height from the 2" dia on the bottom to the 15" dia on top but then it would have been under 20 gallon capacity with the cylinder being 22" height so i opted for 8"

Yes thats what that shows to the point of the cone its 8" but the cone on mine is cut off to have a 2" opening you add the point it will add height to the cone i would say at least 2 inches. Which would put it at 10" height and thus the angle changes ill put an angle finder on it later and show...

The diameter is 15" and the height is 8" it may be closer to 50°

Its a 55° angle

The electropolishing will take care of the buffing actually what it will do will take a few thousandths off the surface which will shine it right up and smooth it out. Also the interior welds will also be sanded down and smoothed out too but as of right now they look like this