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Just going to leave this here in case people want to wire their keezer like I did with the outlet on the back of the collar. Never mind the color of the wires.

Whew! I've been waiting for a response hoping this was the case. Thanks for the confirmation!

I was going to wire my unit today actually, but I'll hold off now that I'm confused. I based my new diagram off of the one TechyDork sent me. The lines follow from the same port on the controller to the same location on the outlet in both diagrams. Maybe this is easier than I think, are you...

I think I finally have it sorted it out, if my legend is now correct. Thanks for your help!

I think what has been confusing me from the manufacturing diagram is that 2, 5, and 7 are all tied in but I may just be reading that wrong because it doesn't consider an outlet in the diagram such as the one above. I made some adjustments thanks to everyone's input. This should be the final...

That was another concern. When you say switched hots you mean line 5 and 6 right (heating and cool powers)? And line 2 would be fine to be ran this way? I guess that means longer single wires that I manually group together versus just using stripped wire from an extension cord for lines 5 and 6.

Can someone check my wiring on this? The red is live, neutral is gray and ground is green. Maybe I'm not using those terms correctly because the confusing part to me is there isn't a red going to the outlet that will be mounted on the collar.

Can someone check my wiring on this? The red is live, neutral is gray and ground is green. Maybe I'm not using those terms correctly because the confusing part to me is there isn't a red going to the outlet that will be mounted on the collar.

All sold out. I'll just go with the Inkbird. Thanks for the suggestion.

I'll look into that, thanks for the tip!

My google skills seem to be lacking right now, I can't find a link to purchase one with the new firmware. Is it not normally loaded with that firmware?

Just going to leave this here in case someone has a similar question in the future. Now to figure out my best way to prevent cold air loss from the hole in the collar.

Awesome, I didn't even consider doing it like this but I think that is probably the better option. Thanks man!

So I should be able to accomplish everything I need with one standard outlet if I'm understanding you correctly. The top portion of the outlet can be for the freezer to plug into and the bottom portion can be where the heater plugs into? This is easier than I thought it would be.

I'm a complete novice at this. I'm sure it'll make more sense once I get the Inkbird in hand along with the rest of the items. But what is the point of having two electrical outlets like this? Will I be able to heat and cool with just one outlet? And I should be able to wire in a PC fan...

I'm not sure if this is the right area or if it's more of an electrical area. I'm in beginning of a keezer build and I've decided I'd like to do some more DIY work with the temp. controller and I'd like to have this knockoff STC-1000 in the collar mostly for aesthetics and I like the idea of...

I'm in beginning of a keezer build and I've decided I'd like to do some more DIY work with the temp. controller and I'd like to have this knockoff STC-1000 in the collar mostly for aesthetics and I like the idea of having it within the keezer versus a separate project box. So question 1: Does...

Thanks!

I guess my main concern is using something like liquid nails would probably prevent me from ever removing the collar from the freezer in the future. Silicone is enough for a good seal and prevents movement of the collar? That's what I'm reading now anyway, I wouldn't have thought that. Thanks...

This is in regards to collars that are fixed to a chest freezer bottom. So I've been looking at plenty of keezer builds and unfortunately I haven't seen many details on the bottom of the collar being fixed to the chest freezer. Do people use silicone caulk to glue the wood collar to the...