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In my setup, yes it's a 2-Pole, 30 AMP breaker with a "pigtail" Neutral wire. Like this one:

Could you elaborate why you think GFCI breaker wouldn’t work for this setup?

Thanks Bobby for responding. You’re always a big help. Typically I start with 3-4 gallons in MLT (1600 element in RIMS tube) and another 6-7 in HLT (new 2500 watt) element. Mash & drain into BK, then 2 batch sparges with water from HLT, draining both batch sparges into BK. Then boil in BK...

Here is what ChatGBT is answering me to help better my understanding.

It is a single phase (split-phase?), 4 wires (L1, L2, Neutral, and Ground). It is connected to the breaker box with a 2-pole GCFI 30 AMP breaker, delivering 240 volts across both poles (L1 and L2).

So It's not possible? If I understand what you are saying - in theory I could have 2 x 2500 W elements - since the load is balanced it would have 21 AMP load on the breaker (or 42 AMP load?). My understanding was that L1 would carry 21 amps and L2 would carry 14 amps and since they are...

@HighVoltageMan! The 5500 Watt element is not in the equation for my original question. It ONLY ever runs by itself full 240 V power to it. My current controller is setup to ONLY run the 2 x 16xx Watt elements OR run the 5500 Watt element (3 POS selector switch) . This is my current setup. The...

I have a 3 vessel system currently running 3 elements (1600, 1650, and 5500 watt elements) on a 30 AMP breaker. I run the 16xx Watt elements (one on L1 and one on L2 for 240V wiring) that I run at the same time. I have no issues running this configuration. I use a switch to switch 240V to the...

If I included heating elements, tools, and all the electrical components the total cost would be around $1,000. Plus or minus couple of hundred dollars depending on what tools someone already has. If you do not include the heating elements and just the electrical components in the electrical...

I am new myself to using the Auber products but really like the interface and responsiveness of the DSPR-120 product. I am using DSPR-120 one for the RIMS tube in my MLT and one for my BK. I really like the knob feature and wanted all 3 of my PID controllers to have knobs for inputs. In my...

Updates: Upgraded the 2 Inkbird PIDs to Auber PIDs. - MLT is using the Auber EZ Boil DSPR-120. - HLT is using the newly released DSPR-5 (recently released in July 2024). - BK is using the Auber EZ Boil DSPR-120.

I wanted to share my electric brewery setup I built recently and contribute back to the the community. Here is a link to all the images in an album. To give some background, I started brewing with propane and slowly built out different control panels as my system grew. This is my 3rd version...

So that original thermo cable in my original images was included with my Inkird PID. I ended up buying some of these thermowells with 1/2in NPT male that screws into female bulkhead, and hole drilled inside of HLT.

Wild, I didn’t know that at all. I brewed so many batch just submerging that guy in my HLT.

My HLT is programmed with an electric PID with this temperature sensor that is wired to the PID to read the temperature of the water. Here is the PID temp. probe looks like. Currently, I am just setting (free dropping) the temp. probe inside the water during heating. But I want to fix (make...

Posted to wrong thread

Thanks for chiming in and clearing my misunderstandings up. I learned something new for sure. Cheers!

That’s great you got it figured out!

What is your heat difference and cool difference set to (usually Hd and Cd)? I have my temp control set to 1F on both heat difference and cool difference. Meaning when it recognized 1F temp off, it will power on heat or cool until the target temp is hit. Once the target temp is hit, the unit...

Yeah, I don't know either. 🤨 TIL