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"L" copper tubing and "M" copper tubing are both the same copper, one is just thicker walled than the other. Also, stainless steal is less reactive than copper. Apparently those famed copper tuns in Europe are less desirable than SS. Sorry I can't site my source, I forgot where I read this.

I'm working up a brown and thought I'd try getting this flavor into it to give it some personality. I'm wondering if it would be worth adding water and sugars to counter the loss in fermentability and rise in body. Any idea from those with experience on if this would work and how one might go...

Wow, I hit a home-run with this question. Thanks everyone for chiming in, so many great comments and insights. For what it's worth, I'm planning on repitching a fresh starter (maybe WLP90 SD Super). Thinking of continuing down this interesting experiment and NOT aerting my wort. I'll keep...

Below is the source material regarding not aerating wort... "If possible, don't! The reason is that it is not the wort that needs the oxygen, it is the yeast. By oxgenating the wort instead of the yeast starter, it will cause an over production of cells due to the excessive oxygen presence...

@Dan & Hello: http://theflatearthsociety.org/cms/ @poptarts: O2 & temp are related in that, oxygen is not needed for fermentation (only for cell multiplication) and by oxygenating your starter (to GROW yeast) then pitching into a NON oxygenated wort (to ferment) one will have a cleaner beer due...

Ok, so I forgot to aerate my wort but have discovered that this is a strategy used to create a cleaner ferment. As the oxygen is only needed for bulk cell division and not so much for fermentation. Pitching a properly sized starter should be sufficient. Anyone have experience with this? If...

I'm looking for experience on temperature regime strategies.Do you start warm, say 76* for a couple days, then cool to 68*, a degree a day, etc. This is not about how to cool/heat with equipment, but what temp's and for how long, etc. What are your temp regime strategies?

Now that's what I'm talking about. Thanks Gratham & Adam, I can chew on those comments for sure. I've been vacillating between mash-out and not. I got cold feet a couple of brews ago when I over shot and nearly denatured the whole batch. Your comment definitely has got me thinking though -...

Yeah, you could put it that way. But do you have any experience of how to counter balance one against the other?

I'm looking for experience with balancing body. If I add malts for body, say +/-15% flaked barley for a creaminess, will a medium body mash (152*) be too much?

Sweet! That all sounds pretty logical to me. I figured it'd be something like that. Thanks for the help.

Awesome, thanks! That's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. I've ordered materials and have it planned for about 35% Mild Ashburne and 55% Maris. I want it to have a sweetness to it, so we'll see how it works out. My next problem is trying to figure out how to calculate 1st & 2nd...

I'm thinking of using a Mild Malt (Briess' Ashburne 5.3L) as a base for an Imperial roasty chocolate stout (first runnings) and brown/porter ale (2nd runnings). My Mild addition is at 53%, which is even higher than the recommendation for Bocks from Briess (I'll probably lower that some)...

I use the late steep for color as well. Usually it's something very dark, but I'm doing a saison this weekend and am adding special roast for an orange color late as well. Does it work well for you?

You mention espresso...you know, maybe it's the volume of something in the roasted grain that makes it seem less smooth. Like an espresso, it IS smoother, but concentrated as well. Yeah, I've heard many times to simplify to the bare necessities and it's worked well for me as well. I've found...

Yeah, I've been planning my recipes as if the darker the roast the more acrid/astringent. I've heard that coffee is smoother with the darker roasts. It would be great if someone had experimented with this and could confirm what Mosher says. Pale chocolate at 180 should be terrible, I've used...

From Beersmith..."We discuss why there are not many malts made in the range of 100-350L color, largely because they have a poor flavor (cigarette ash)" I listened to the podcast, which was hard to follow. Could this be the case? I don't have suite enough experience to know.

Well, I work with industrial boilers, which require dissolved oxygen free water (also demineralized). Super heated steam is run through it along with an oxygen scavenging chemical. I would say you're right, it is the temperature, but because that vaporizes the water, which then drives out the...

http://beersmith.com/blog/2014/04/25/beer-freshness-and-oxygen-with-chaz-benedict-beersmith-podcast-80/ After hearing this podcast I found your post as I was looking up people who pre-boil their mash water. I know a pro-brewer hear in Torrance (SmogCity Brewing) who does that. I thought it...

How how much are you adding at flameout, how long are you fermenting in primary and secondary? Do you use honey malt, and if not do you taste the honey at all or do you do it just for drying and lightening the body? Sorry for all the questions. It's nice to have someone who's got experience...