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I can't think of a time that I wanted the hole to be any bigger or smaller.

Mine is right about that size. I found a stainless steel lid that would fit and cut the hole according to that.

Check out a calculator like this one. It tells you how much you need to pitch. http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/

Something like this would be a good starter set. You can buy more kegs for about $40 each or upgrade from the picnic tap if you want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keg-Kit-Used-5-Gallon-Ball-Lock-Keg-5-lb-CO2-Tank-Regulator-Hoses-Tap-Faucet-/281236395541?hash=item417afed615:g:wlkAAMXQTjNSMNiX

Yes it is.

Here's MoreBeers recipe from their kit. I think it's pretty much spot on. This is for 5 gallons. The corn sugar gets added at 10 minutes left in the boil, not in the mash.

If I was you I would just buy a large cooler. Somewhere around 100 quarts (should do most 15 gallon batches) and build a copper false bottom. It will be the cheapest and easiest way to go.

I had a 12.5 gallon pot. I realized pretty quickly I was never going to actually be able to do a ten gallon batch in it. If a ten gallon batch seems even slightly appealing do yourself a favor and buy a 15 gallon pot or get yourself a keggle.

Here's the inside.

My wife bought me this for my birthday last year. I think it's from Uncommon Goods. I really love it.

I guess this is what I was assuming. I assumed the op was kegging and had a little left and the priming drops would be quick and easy. If the op wants to Individually prime every bottle a batch produces than I guess it would work but that's way more work than I'm willing to do.

I'm not sure I would go to all that work when you can just use these? https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-drops.html

Any interest in selling a half a dozen of each?

How are you reading the gravity? With a refractometer or hydrometer?

I feel like I ask myself this all the time... For a couple years I've been using my keezer as a fermentation chamber, lifting carboys and speidels in and out...all while an unused fridge sat in my storage unit. Now it's sitting in the garage with two carboys full of beer fermenting away...

No matter what you're reading on the hydrometer, brix or otherwise, it will be inaccurate unless you use the conversion once fermentation has started.

As long as it's stable, I'd say you're fine. 75% attenuation is above what Wyeast says to expect for that yeast (67-71%).

You can use your hydrometer or use the middle calculator found here. https://www.northernbrewer.com/learn/resources/refractometer-calculator/ The refractometer can't take the alcohol into account so it gives a false reading. Looks like your beer finished at about 1.011.

I was going to ask the same thing. A refractometer will not give you an accurate reading once there is alcohol.

Like someone said get a Fermometer and put it on the side of your fermenter. 2-3 hours proa ly isn't a big deal but in the future wait til you're at the temp you want before you pitch.