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The manual switchs are a saftey feature. You can switch off the power being supplied to an element no matter what the PID wants. Adjusting a PID takes a little time. If you have a boil over you can manually switch off power to that element to stop the boil over. You can also be pretty confident...

If you are using the element from post #11, I used number 10 wire. Number 10 is rated for 30 amps. That element will draw approx 23 to 25 amps (240V to 220V). The SSRs that I have have screw down clamps on them. I used SOOW cord and put on crimp connectors.

I did not get mine from there, but that is the exact element I have in mine.

Try one of these. http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/stirring-straining/small-straining-bag-12-x-19.html I use a counterflow chiller so it would be a little different than what I do. The last 20 min. of the boil I recirculate thru my counter flow and into one of these...

+1 I have used the same HD bi-metal hole saws. Have cut multiple holes with the same saw.

I use a false bottom from Midwest in my 10 gallon cooler. Works great.

You are welcome. Good luck on your lager fermenations.

Your idea is sound, but I would recommend using this instead of the brew belt. http://www.homebrewers.com/c=JK789E5cYc03RzcDDy9b8scQN/product/FFE650/Carboy-Heater.html I would also recommend using a temp controller to control the carboy heater. Happy fementations.

+1 Most of us are doing the weldless thing. We need the o-ring to make the seal. If you have a welded 1/2 coupling you should not need the o-ring. Put on some teflon tape and give it a water test.

I would also suggest losing the zinc plated washer. If you need a washer, ask (hardware store, HD, Lowes, etc...) someone for a brass washer. You may have to enlarge the hole, but I have had some lucking finding them.

I have also soldered two copper pipes running side by side together without any problems. As previously said, you must sand well, flux then solder. Without sanding and flux it will not stick.

The first thing that comes to mind is this is a sour blend. I don't think I have ever heard anyone recommend building up a yeast pitch from a small amount when it is a blend. That said, I have never done it and am only speaking second hand information. Good luck what ever you do.

Take a gravity reading or wait it out, but don't bottle until it is finished.

I use US-05 alot. Without using any simple sugars my typical finial gravity on 1.050 - 1.060 OG beers is around 1.008. I think getting a 1.007 FG after adding 4% honey is right in the ball park.

What ever the output of your transformer is.

I do not remember the brand as it has been a year or so back. I bought it at my local hardware store. I think it was like $28.00. I will stop by and get the band name of them tomarrow. I did not make any major bends in mine, I just opend the current bends up some.

I have also bent my heating element. It is a Ripple 5500w ULW. So I would have to agree with 95747brewer that some can be bent.

I guess I should reconsider the malt prices I pay. I always thought the price were ridiculous. I live within 1 hour of Midwest and Northern Brewer. I work in the same area that they are located so I can stop by when ever I need to. I also have a brew shop that sells me Briess 2 Row at $27.00 per...

I think you guys were looking at the design as the problem greenwood was having. I can tell you that it is not the problem. The original picture that was posted was my burner. It is an animal. Yes a taller wind screen would help, but the burner height is set well. Yes, this is the KAB4. I think...

Stainless steel vs plastic, ceramic or wood, food grade, duarbility, stainless can be boiled to sanitize as porus materials are hard to sanitize using liquid sanitizers.