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with their monkey

It looks like he is going faster than he should for that truck, sure, but he is decelerating as his is between the two vehicles, and the force he hit the van with means that the van was on the brakes HARD. I can't see if there was an accident ahead of them that forced the van to break like...

Watching the video it looks like some moron in a silver van break checks the guy trying to get to the right. The silver van starts out in the left lane in the very beginning. Yeah some of the peoples reactions are funny, the guy in the Passat that was happy to watch for a wile, then he jumps...

used by Lindsay Lohan

Same here on the TP, over the top is the only correct way! Also, I have to manually wash all dishes before they go in the dishwasher. I just use it as a sterilizing cycle.

tightly closed fist

once a month

Yeah, makes sense. Thanks for your help and the write up! Just need to get some longer bolts for the tower, but I didn't brick it! Next I'm adding a 140mm fan (ultra quiet computer fan) and the stc-1000. With any luck I will be done tomorrow.:mug:

The sensor should just be a 1k ohm nickel resistive sensor. As long as you don't get the controller wet, it should be fine. If you are worried, a dab of silicone on the top will seal it fine. If not you can get one for about ten bucks that will work. Edit: Just to add, I install and program...

I picked up the same fridge (thinking it was the other style FR465). I was curious, how did you re-attach the door seal? I pulled the shelves out, but it doesn't seal and I'd rather not build a frame for the seal if you have an easier option. Thanks!

I have got to try this! This is bachelor ghetto fabulous!!:p

Not sure the gauge, but I would get some wood, route out the size you want the screen, (plus the screen thickness of course), then cut a circle out the size you want the screen (minus the thickness of the screen). Mark the screen with a pen where the bend with be, then heat with a torch and...

25.2 V will be fine. You aren't going to hurt any 24v items until you hit the 40v mark for extended periods of time. Ive seen 18-36v work for years on low volt controls, but I would rather be higher than lower.

You can try and exchange them like de3isit said, but in reality you fried them, and although it sucks, the honest thing to do is take the hit and move on. If you pm me somewhere to send it, I will send you the one I've got to help ease the pain. I can look around the shop tomorrow to see if we...

Well if it helps I have a similar one sitting on my truck. The customer insisted on replacing theirs even though I told them it wasn't bad. I can send it to ya if you're interested.

If you put 120 to TH-W through the relay, you probably fried that controller.

I may be miss-understanding what you are saying, but no. You have two separate things going on. First you are powering the controller, which like any electrical circuit requires a positive and a negative (hot/neutral, hot/ground), and a control/thermostat which is only a switch that tell...

Did you run the common the 24gnd and the R to 24 as well? It needs both. Also triple check the ignitor ground, it is very important. Just my experience from working on similar ignitors for boilers in commercial HVAC. Also, what goes to the sense terminal with the delta 2? Nevermind, pulled...

I see an error, maybe just a drawing mistake, but your R from your transformer goes to 24v not 24 gnd. Your common can be grounded if you like but it doesn't have to be. On further review it looks like your R goes to 24, common to 24 gnd and a second wire off of the R side through the relay to...

Nice set up! I wish I had room for something like that. For the leak, I would get a Mars H-10 (your HVAC buddy will probably have one), Throw a little gas in it and start searching. Keep a fan running or you will get hits every where. To fix the leak, add the silfos as cold as possible...