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I definitely recommend Old Rasputin as well. There is a good clone recipe for it in the BYO 150 recipe special issue and I'm sure you can find it online somewhere. This beer style, however, may be much more intense than you're expecting if you haven't had one. You will want to age it for...

Just soak them and use a spatula to scrape them off. If you are really so desperate then buy the "Straight A" cleanser which is made to help labels come off, and works.

What's the problem with a fridge in the living room? Nothing. The problem lies elsewhere...

As you can see, the wort is all separated up and not uniform. Most likely you simply got a bad hydrometer reading if you think your gravity is too high. It is a very common beginner mistake. Make sure the wort is mixed up real well next time you take an OG reading.

I've used them in beer and think they're great. Being "sweet" cherries won't change the amount of sweetness you get from them, they're going to ferment if you let them. But they will have a different flavor from different cherry varieties.

These names were talked about in the book from a couple years back "Freakonomics" in the chapter on names. Since it came out, it seems like everybody knows them... The chapter also mentioned two kids named Winner and Loser. Loser became a high ranking police officer and his brother, Winner...

Whoever started this whole "sweaty horse blanket", leather, gamey stuff anyways? How does anyone know what horse sweat tastes like? Isn't stuff like that illegal?

The answer is: get a 10 gallon!

Yes it refers to the yeast fallout in the fermenter. Yes it can be reused. Yes it does include other stuff/gunk, especially if it's from a primary fermenter. It's easier to use the yeast cake for a new fermentation, because there's less gunk, but you don't want to take yeast from a secondary...

I've used them for flavor and aroma additions in a rye pale ale. Came out great, really went well with the rye, and I definitely agree they have a peppery/herbal taste.

I agree. Also, there are calculations to correct refractometer readings during fermentation (ie-alcohol has been made) but nobody seems to agree on their accuracy.

Just as you found out, it's possible but harder to get it on right. I agree they are more likely to break as well.

If you expect not to lose co2 while bottling you'll need to be as cold as possible, and preferably fill under pressure (ie-counter pressure bottle filler). Just bottle it if you don't have these means.

They are the same thing...http://www.homebrewers.com/product/GH180B/UK_Brown_Amber_Malt_20L.html

Many people use bottling buckets and this was just a response to the original post, addressing what he said. Yes, if you wanted to completely limit the amount of 02 your beer is exposed to you wouldn't use a bottling bucket. The fact is, small amounts of oxidation are not big problems for...

Use 1.25 lb LME for every 1 lb of DME you would have used. Basically, see how much DME the recipe calls for and DIVIDE that number by 0.8.

Yeah if you're siphoning into a bottling bucket anyways, then putting sugar on the bottom won't change the amount of oxidation. And in my experience, siphoning onto sugar stirs it up just fine.

Think about becoming a novelist maybe? If your fermentation temp kicked up to 79 the yeast is more likely to speed up fermentation rather than get stuck. Keep in mind, however, that airlock bubbling is not a great indicator of fermentation. If you're using a bucket some c02 will seep out...

I highly doubt you are getting those numbers with a 30 min sparge. If you are, you are almost certainly, at the least, stripping a crap load of tannins during your sparge as well. You say you threw water in to test the measuring. But, was the water you used to test the same temperature as the...

Also, are you judging the color in a glass or in the fermenter? Your beer will look much darker in the fermenter than it will in the glass. Even a straw clear beer will look orange in the fermenter due to reflecting light off the yeast still in suspension, etc..