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My issues is simply a question of room. Don't ask for details, just know I'm ridiculously tight. But all this talk gave me ideas. Tennbrewer; the only thing I think you have to be careful about getting it at Home Depot is to get food grade. Other types may not be safe/healthy

I need to find a way with my current setup to have a low off tube while keeping a high sanitation level. Haven't found a way for that yet. If I could I would finally kick the bucket and be able to do all in one fermenter

Honestly I got into the habit of racking a while back. The reason is pretty simple, my primary is plastic and my secondary it a glass carboy. The plastic tends to retain some smell if I leave the beer in there too long. So I rack grabbing some of the yeast bed into the secondary and leave it in...

In at boil. I changed types of muslins recently and with the old ones never had that issue. I guess the muslins will stay for the steeping of grains. Thank you

I've had an issue with my las test batch and I'm worried it may have scrapped the batch... The mesh on my muslin bag seems to have been to large and most of the hops winded up in my worth. I left it there and put it in my primary fermenter for 3-4 days before racking it. Most of it seemed to...

Why is it that we need to pitch at 77f? What major impact other than a beer that won't clear is there is you pitch at a higher temp?

Ate you saying there's no purpose to boiling the extract and fermentable sugars?

I would consider myself an intermediate extract brewer, I've done about 10 batches so far, but every time I brew I ask myself the same question. When we talk about 60min boil time, were talking about after adding the malt extract of course. But do I need to let the water come back to boil then...

I'll be brewing a simple recipe with 4 different types of yeast to see the exact impact that yeast has on beer. It a batch of carslberg clone that I've done before with wyeast 2042 Danish lager. I want to have 4 varieties of yeast as different from each other as possible. Can anyone help me...

I'll be brewing a simple recipe with 4 different types of yeast to see the exact impact that yeast has on beer. It a batch of carslberg clone that I've done before with wyeast 2042 Danish lager. I want to have 4 varieties of yeast as different from each other as possible. Can anyone help me...

Thanx for the info. Actually, is there a difference between the ferment ability of dextrose or sucrose?

What the difference in adding dextrose or maltodextrin in a batch of home brew? What impact would using one vs the other in the bottling process?

Thanks for all the advice. I really feel like I tried to tackle too many issues at once. This may see like a ridiculous question, but how much of an impact does the yeast have on the final taste of a beer? I love my carslberg clone, even though I didn't really let it lagger, and I'm not sure...

Im fairly new at brewing, I'll be doing my third batch this weekend. I've been reading a lot from Papazian and on this forum and I'm starting to have an information overload of information. Now I wanna be able to isolate variables. I'll be making the same recipe several times in a row changing...

Wyeast 2042 Danish lagger And to get back to the original point; the only way to confirm that fermentation is done and that you can bottle is the gravity, correct?

Actually, most recipes I find don't indicate those informations, that's why I'm asking

I was very surprised with the 1.001 myself, re-check and it is accurate within .001. It is a lagger yeast, but I was told to keep it around 40. I'm at 55f I used the lagger yeast since at 55f is a bit too low for a ale yeast (or so I was told) Other than clearing, what is the purpose of...

Good day, I'm a new brewer now on my second brew and have one major question. How do you know that your brew is ready to bottle. My first batch was probably bottled too soon because of the temperature at which I made my beer using ale yeast. For my second brew, I'm using a lagger yeast and...