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I replied to the PM, but I don't mind sharing! Here's what I brewed Batch Size: 6 Gal OG 1.071 FG 1.021 IBU 30 SRM 5 7lbs 8oz 2 Row 2lbs 8oz Flaked Oats 1lb 12oz White Wheat 8oz Carapils 8oz Honey Malt 1lbs 8oz Lactose I bittered with .25oz Apollo at 60 1oz Apollo at 10 Then a hopstand with...

I have a temp controlled fridge. I usually ferment around 65 to 68 and keep the temp consistent within a couple degrees. After eliminating O2 issues it has to be something with my mash process.you guys are probably right about the hot spots

Thanks for the replies! I split the batch into 2 fermenters. Each fermenter gets a can of yeast for a normal mid gravity batch. Imperial makes their yeast cans ready to pitch with 200 billion cells, so I don't think that's the problem. I also check fg with my hydrometer so I'm good there...

Hey everyone! I'm getting incredibly frustrated with a recurring problem where my beers are all stalling out way early, usually somewhere around the 1.020 mark. I've had a beer with an OG of 1.060 stall around there, a beer around 1.044 stall there, and several others. Some background to help...

I had this exact problem with this style of beer. Its absolutely from oxidation. The beer turns brownish and dull looking, and the aroma and flavor just gets stale while the bitterness remains. I tried the same thing you did, but it didn't change until I started kegging and could do closed...

You could just call it a hoppy Irish red or maybe an American Amber/Red Ale may be more appropriate

I brewed something VERY similar recently. Though I've never had the Tired Hands version, I couldn't have been happier with the way the beer turned out. It was a 6 gallon batch. I used 3 vanilla beans, 4 medium sized green apples, a quarter pound of whole wheat four, lactose, and 8 lbs of mango...

I'm guessing that's measured with whirlpool additions which I know most people don't include in their recipe with their IBU calculations. My NE DIPA with an OG of 1.075 only had 37 calculated IBUs, but the perception of bitterness and hop flavor was much higher because of all the flameout and...

Looks awesome to me and similar to one of my favorite beers that I brew, mine just has some Mosaic as well and I use honey malt rather than crystal. For what its worth, I've found the sweet spot for me to be around 15% oats to give a very smooth mouthfeel.

That looks like a really bitter beer! Apollo and Columbus can get you a lot of pungent dank aroma and quite a bit of grapefruit too if you would have used them in a dry hop and hop stand. I'd have moved your 30 and 10 minute additions to a hop stand and dry hop if you were to brew this again...

I'd personally drop the crystal down quite a bit, or even cut it out completely. If you're using Amber LME, it likely has some crystal already. If you haven't already purchased your ingredients I'd only use light extract and get your color and flavor from specialty grains. This is closer to...

I'd cut down on the bittering charge if you're going NE style. I'd do .5 oz of CTZ at 60 and get rid of the 45 minute addition. I'd move the .5 oz of CTZ you save there to 10 minutes. I'd get rid of the 30 minute Simcoe addition and move it either to 10, the whirlpool, or the dry hop. All of...

Give it time, its really early to judge the beer yet. The flavor of the beer after four days is going to be pretty different than it will be after a few weeks.

No need to feel silly, its all a learning process! Using a recipe calculator definitely helps with these things. I think you'll find when you adjust your recipe you'll be getting a lot more flavor and aroma from your hops!

A big +1 to all of this! Use an ounce or so (maybe up to 2 if you want more bite) of something high alpha acid like Warrior, Columbus, Nugget, or Apollo and save everything else for late. With the hops you used in this recipe, I'd have gone with: 1 or 2oz (Depending how bitter you want, I'd...

Im in no way disputing what your buddy heard, I'm just very surprised by this. I've heard a number of people saying that Conan is a finicky strain to work with. I've always had 1318 behave very predictably for me. On the BA forums JC has said WLP 007 for clone attempts. So take that for what...

I haven't seen the recipe but I'd guess the rest of the IBUs come from the flameout/whirlpool additions depending on the whirlpool temp. New England IPAs usually have a pretty low bittering charge and get most of their IBU from late hops

Yea I was definitely going to add at least a pound of white wheat. If I recall my White wheat was around 6 or 7% with the flaked adjuct at about 15% Should I increase the White Wheat as well?

In my never ending quest to perfect my New England Style DIPA, I'm dialing in some of the fine points of my recipe. I posted a thread about hopstand vs dry hop additions and quantities, and I think I have that where I want it. My last question before I brew what I hope is the final version...

To be honest, I mostly do it because Trillium adds it to their hoppy beers :D