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I did the recipe 3 or 4 times as an extract brew. It was the best of any of the extracts I've done (maybe 10). I started doing BIAB after that. It is an even better brew as a BIAB, but I guess most BIABs are better than the extracts. I changed the grain bill and Hops when I went BIAB...

Seems like a reasonable capacity for a brew pub. I would worry a lot more about head room above the kettle than weight. If the kettle is as big as the bag they are going to need atleast 16ft ceilings, maybe more. How many restaurants have that in the kitchen?

I see a lot of confusion in that thread. As I understand mashout in biab: - Heat the water to strike temp (160 or so) - turn off heat and add grains - wait 60 or so minutes for mash - turn heat back on - when mash hits 170, pull the bag and squeeze Because the mash continues during...

The biabacus calculator from biabrewer.info is complex, but it will let you put in the dimensions of your kettle and give you an estimated boil off. That forum has user restrictions when you first register. You have to post an intro message before it turns on some privileges. I think...

I did my second biab over the weekend. I use the thermometer that came with my turkey fryer. (Mechanical with about a 12 inch stem.) After the mash, I turned the propane back on to heat the kettle to 170 for mashout. I checked the thermometer every couple minutes and it just wasn't...

That's for sure. I've seem really different amounts come out of different calculators. It seems typical is about one ounce of sugar for a gallon of wort. I use about 2 ounces of water per gallon of wort. You just need enough water to let the boil be a boil and candy cooking. (I did too...

I think it depends on what you are trying to do. Per <https://byo.com/extract-brewing/item/10-10-steps-to-better-extract-brewing> == The biggest improvement most extract brewers can make to their process is to boil their wort in a larger volume. Early homebrewing books instructed brewers to...

If anything the amount of sediment / trub / yeast cake at the bottom of your fermenter looks small. I carry my fermenter from the storage area to the racking location very gently. The goal is to leave as much of the yeast cake in place as possible. Then when I rack I keep the end of the...

If you go pure BIAB you only use one kettle and one burner and don't have to transfer water/wort until after the boil. Otherwise you need a source of hot water to sparge with, so 2 burners seems typical. I've only done pure BIAB for all grain, but there seem to be bunch of variations in how...

As a side note, per http://morebeer.com/articles/how_yeast_use_oxygen the oxygen in the wort is used in the first 30 minutes after the pitch. I don't know at what point oxygen is bad, but I assume it is before the fermentation is complete.

If you're serious about going electric check out Bubba's Barrels elements with an integrated thermostat: It is bigger than you talked about, but it sure would be cool to have: http://www.bubbasbarrels.com/6-kw-immersion-heater-w-thermostat (I have no first hand experience, but would...

I've tried to ask this question before. Ignoring the trub in the bottle, will the beer itself taste/look different if that extra time takes place in the bottle instead of in the fermenter? Same question for kegs. (And is trub a bigger issue in kegs?)

A full volume boil is more like starting with 6 1/2 or so gallons. You loose a gallon or so to evaporation and then you leave some water behind in the boil kettle because of settlement. The big surprise to me is you also lose a quart or more just to cooling. ie. hot water is less dense than...

Is your first brew going to use separate hops or will the hops be in the extract? If the hops are already in the extract the primary purpose of the boil is to sanitize the extract. In that case you could do a 6 quart boil I suspect with no loss of flavor. If you have separate hops, then the...

I like having a carboy, but it is rather expensive and many here don't use one at all. You can wait for brew 3 or 4 to buy (or never if you want to just use buckets). A carboy is a nicety, not a necessity. Plastic buckets will last you way more than one or two brews. I bet mine has done 100...

There are now a million beer brewers and probably a lot of them are occasional brewers. I started really cheap: Turkey fryer with 7.8 gallon kettle - already owned (Actually the first couple I did on the stove with a 12 quart stock pot - already owned) 6.8 gallon fermentation bucket - borrowed...

I keep my beer at cool room temp for at least 5 weeks before lagering in the fridge. I think it tastes even better if I wait up to 10 weeks before lagering. From what I read here it takes that long because my temps/process isn't perfect so some off-flavors get in to my beer. Giving it longer...

I've read that if you pull the bag at 150 or so a lot of the extracted fermentables stick to the grains because it is so viscous (sticky). The hotter the sparge water the better job it does at reducing the viscosity and thus getting the fermentables to release from the grains. The only...

Shouldn't your sparge water be about 170 (but below 175). Also 2-row is a base malt, so it is malted. But the oats typically aren't and they were 30% of your grain bill all by themselves.

Uhh... you've had your beer in the carboy clarifying and now you are considering adding sugar (or whatever) and stirring it in? You really have to give the beer a good stir after you add the sugar. If you did that in the carboy, you'd destroy all your good efforts at clarifying. Basically...