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I put 60 in because it allowed me to run my HLT and BK (48 amps together) with two pumps going (another 4a or so) without worrying about bumping up against my breaker capacity. The cost of a 60A GFCI was negligible compared to a 50, and the cost of the supply wire was about 20% more overall...

Sorry folks, ended up having to deal with an emergency just after posting this (unrelated) and it totally slipped my mind that I'd posted it. I'm using an SSR controlled via a potentiometer (this type...

Nope, installed as they came, no thermal paste.

Yup, mounted on a heatsink, decent airflow.

Hey folks, I just finished putting together my full electric control panel last night, and it's perfect except for a (pretty big) snag. I've wired my BK control up using a Potentiometer and an AC control SSR; when I turned it on, it worked great, and it heated REALLY fast -- I got 5.5g from 50f...

Any other "voices of experience" able to chime in to help out?

I've got a crappy "china special" double product regulator from OntarioBeerKegs that's SO bad they no longer sell or support the thing -- it's inconsistent, the low pressure gauges wobble and go all over the place, carbonation is impossible to predict, etc. I ended up getting a good quality...

That's a GREAT example, thanks -- I'm going to try setting mine up EXACTLY like that. Do you mind if I ask you how adapted the element triclamp holder to the threaded fitting? I'd love to be able to pop the element out for easy cleaning.

I've popped onto a desktop computer here and reformatted the post, and also called out the key information in clearer, list form in addition to the "prose" description. Thanks for your patience.

Sorry folks I've posted this using the the IPhone app and used the app's native functionality. Until I get back to a desktop I won't be able to see how it appears in browser. PJ, sorry if it's messy, is there any info that would help that i have missed? Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

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Summary System Flow: Wort exits MLT through copper manifold Wort passes through 24" hose to Chugger pump Wort exits Chugger (throttled to roughly halfway) via 24" hose to RIMS Wort enters "IN" side of RIMS (Element side) Wort exits RIMS, crossing Pt100 Probe Wort returns to MLT via 36" hose...

It's all torn apart that this point -- would a drawing suffice?

Update 2: the entire base of the element is distorted and melted -- no idea what caused this. Completely at a loss to explain what would have overheated the element so severely to melt the base, but the temperature of the wort returning to the MLT never got above 160f based on my handheld...

Update: Just ran off and the wort is completely scorched -- element is caked in black burned material again. What am I doing wrong?! This is the third batch I've had this happen on!

Hey folks, I'm currently ironing out the kinks of my RIMS, and my latest hitch is bubbles in the system. I've found that if I lay the tube horizontal, but prop up the "in" end (element) slightly, it eliminates bubbles until I start mashing out -- then, when the element kicks on in high gear, I...

The temp probe is on the wort-in side, element is wort-out. I noticed the variance when I picked up the "probe" end (which is already slightly elevated to prevent bubbles) and all of a sudden the temperature spiked massively. Peeking in the camlock in, the tip of the probe just BARELY lines up...

I've finally got my RIMS kit set up, and it's working in theory; however, I'm seeing some wonky mismatches between the measured temp and the actual temp of the wort returning to the MLT (10-14 degrees f in some cases). My probe is 50mm, and is short enough that it doesn't QUITE reach the input...

Brumateur, you're the best! My "FrankenRIMS" works exactly as expected when set up as you've described. I didn't use it as a RIMS for fear of overshooting, but I DID use it to heat my strike water, and it worked perfectly. Thanks again for all of your help! I'll report back when my new PID...

Thanks for all your help Brumateur. Just to confirm I understand what you're suggesting: - Wiring the Alarm 1 output to the SSR - When the measured value falls below the set value, the "Alarm" goes off - The Alarm trigger closes the SSR - SSR energizes element - Once the set value is reached or...