Search results

No, all three lids are standard with a single 1.5" TC port. Using it for dual use isn't off the table. You can either leave one lid with the CIP ball and swap the lids around as you CIP or one TC clamp move and you convert from a locline to a CIP ball. Either way, an autosparge doesn't work in...

Yeah, it's going to perform well. That stirring action is a game changer. I keep that valve wide open and only close it a tiny bit if I want more volume through the recirc over the top.

I've brewed side by side batches of just pils malt, loosely Helles recipes, and all differences are subtle. I'd say the biggest difference is between Euro grown and domestic. North Star is a bit rustic and grassy and I would expect both Viking and Great Western to be closer to that than the...

Yes, a couple ounces of acidulated will do.

It looks like you have a bit of a leak on the recirc port. Those threads on the whirlpool fitting need teflon tape and a go a little heavy. Those threads are intentionally undersized..

I got one of each of these delivered today. I had a few minutes to look them over. From a build quality perspective they are 9/10. The polishing of the main seam welds as well as every other stainless surface is as good as it gets. Almost perfect. The legs are symmetrical and true and there are...

There are a couple topics in the thread that I was involved in and in this case, I was specifically thinking about using one of these designs as the basis for a single vessel system. In that regard, either the HLT design or BK design would be a boil kettle at the end of the brew day.

In many cases you're going to want to add about 1-2 grams each of gypsum and calcium chloride (in 8 gallons) to get calcium up to 50 ppm and then about 4 mL of 88% lactic acid for pale beers to get mash pH around 5.35. Without acid, your pH will land around 5.8 on a full 2-row mash.

I take corrective actions, but nothing that substantially changes the plan. If I'm missing my gravity, I'll boil harder or dilute. If I open a pack of hops and they are particularly cheesy or questionable, even for their young age, I'll switch to a different variety in the same basic family.

You made a starter on the warm side so it's throwing esters and the cidery thing is likely residual acetaldehyde which is normal for something that just fermented. I would use it.

Generally a mechanical thermostat is going to have two wires. When it calls for cooling, it touches the two wires together. If that's the case, just strip them and wire nut them together.

The boil kettle apparently has the front pickup but the HLT is using it for the temp probe. Given the TIG abilities here at the shop, I'd just weld a new ferrule in for the temp probe and repurpose the front port for a pickup if desired.

Did you post this while having lunch at Panera Bread?

The pink lines are the whole values .990, 1.00, and 1.010. The smaller tick marks are .002 increments. The blue/green line I drew is the bottom of the meniscus so it's reading .999 or .001 lower than water should be. This is close enough to accurate without knowing the temperature of the water...

When I was comparing the HLT vs BK version of the brewbuilt specifically as to the possibility of building my eBIAB rigs, I concluded either one would be fine. First, even if you took the center drain as the pump input for recirculation of the mash and put the whirlpooled output back into the...

My guess is that Brewbuilt (moreflavor) only stocks and sells slingblade elements to keep things simple. It doesn't matter much to me what you end up with. If you buy the kettle from me, I can swap it for a ripple if you would rather that. In a case of a BIAB usage, perhaps the biggest benefit...

Since the undershelves are always just thin metal rolled over at the perimeter, you'll dampen a lot of vibration simply by putting a piece of plywood or MDF on the underside. Just have the bolts go through the pump mount, shelf metal and all the way through the wood. For extra measure, lay a few...

1.024 is a LITTLE high but certainly not unexpected at day 6. In a couple more days it may be at 1.020 and probably perfect.

I'm pretty skeptical that the project is going to work and if it does, it's not going to be easy. In a typical window shaker style AC, the evap coil (the cold one) is often neatly positioned to drop right in to an insulated cooler. If you're really lucky, the two copper tubes are connected at...

I suspect you're being hyperbolic for emphasis on how useful a floor drain is but the lack of a floor drain isn't a reason to scrap making a dedicated space for brewing. What's the alternative? Continuing to drag gear out to the driveway because at least you can hose it off?