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Also in most places you tell the state the wholesale price you are going to charge as part of the ABC/TTB process and the price the retailers then charge is out of your hands. Don't worry about retail sticker prices, make sure your price keeps you profitable. There really isn't much you can do...

Your best bet is going to be figuring your cost per ounce for the mead figuring in production, labor, storage, and losses. Then add on packaging, marketing, and breakage. Then add 20%. Then you might start breaking even.

I bought locktite for foam board, reflectrix tape, and foil-covered 1.5" styrofoam for insulation. Hopefully it's right.

I'm nearing the final assembly stages of my 6-tap keezer build and need advice on a few items. What glue or tape is best for sealing the foil insulation to the inside of my collar? I've seen people use foil tape and/or silicone sealant. What is the consensus? I'm going the dual-hinge route...

Are those 3 1/8" or 4 1/8" shanks?

Thanks Yooper! I hit my must with pectic enzyme pre-fermentation when I dosed it with K-meta. It has already cleared significantly, but it has suck an amazing purple-red hue that I want it fully clarified. I figure I will hit it with sparkelloid when I transfer again in a month or two for bulk...

Thanks! About the cork, that is the heart of my question. The bottles I looked at said "accepts #8 and #9 corks" and I thought there is a quarter of an inch difference in the diameter of them. Would you recommend the larger diameter cork?

I've made a few traditional/show meads, but I've recently stepped up the creativity and need some advice. My most recent batch is a Blood Orange Blueberry mead using Starthistle honey, somewhere in the 13-14% abv range. In the past I've bottled using crown caps, but I wanted to start corking...

Congrats!

Apparently this showed up today.

It's all about thermal mass. If the probe is swinging freely inside your chamber it'll warm up inside quicker than if it is making contact with a keg, carboy, or other liquid. If you left it on a 2 degree differential and swinging free the compressor will kick on and off much more often than...

I'm in as well, also, and such.

When you transfer to a secondary, the best thing to do would be to minimize headspace. If you brewed 5 gallons, put it in a 5 gallon carboy and try to fill it up to the neck. Doing so leaves very little surface area exposed to oxygen (little neck vs bulk of the carboy's space). Just because the...

You're the man Tom, exactly what I needed to hear! Thanks!

OR .... I could try to build and use a Union-like device to see what it does and how it affects the flavor of my beer for only about $25 in parts.

Sure, I understand that is how the oak barrel Burton Union worked, but the 3rd paragraph from the bottom of the BYO Article states: "However there is one key design concept that should be followed in order to make things work: the positioning of the racking cane. The racking cane must dip below...

Maybe I'll snag the 60# version just in case =)

Every Burton system video I've seen shows foamy blowoff going into the Union, but the BYO article seems to indicate the tube from Carboy to "union" should be in the wort itself, pushing liquid and not krausen. Can anyone clarify this for me?

Thanks for the quick reply! I'd been looking at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002H3S5K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 So if the tall 40# fits a sack, I'm guessing the stackable 40# one would too!

I've searched and found several articles on people using Vittles Vaults for fermentors (50# VV appears to be good for 13 gallons of beer...) and I'm looking for someone who has used either the 40# or 60# VV to store grain. I'm looking for stackable, easily accessible (without unstacking)...