Search results

I agree with cyclman. I get my wort down to 80-90 with a chiller then cool it the rest of the way I'm my fridge. If you don't have a fridge the keg bucket and ice works well.

I'd leave it till you rack.

So without knowing what you have or anything, start by reading all of the stickies in the all grain forum. Next, brew. The best advice is to read and brew. You will get helpful hints and tips here, but once you actually do it it will get easier and things will start to make sense. Start off...

Probably a good idea. Thanks.

So just finished pitching the yeastand everything went well. ... except the bee that ended up in the wort. Oh well... it will be my bumble brew I guess. Tasted fantastic! But I ended up being 1.086 with only 1#of the candi sugar. The second pound will be added after primary.

I think I may try the step mash. My efficiency ids usually 65 with biab so I was thinking 1.083 or so. Thanks for all the above advice. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I was thinking that it would likely have a massive fermentation. So I was thinking that splitting into two ferm buckets would be a good idea then combine and secondary in a glass carboy for a number of months. Or do you think the two buckets would be overkill?

Oh and I forgot the 2# of clear candi sugar in the recipe.

So I'm going to be brewing a belgian tripel tomorrow and I would like some feedback about my hops schedule. 13# belgian pils .5# torrified wheat 1# munich .5 #acid malt (to lower mash ph) Mash at 149F 90 min 90min boil 1oz strying goldens at 90 1oz tettnager 20 1 oz saaz at 5min. Pitch...

From what I've read you can drive of all of the alcohol by this method. The way it gets back to the 0.5% abv is with the natural carbing. When you add the yeast and priming sugar you create alcohol. I would imagine that if you kegged it you wouldnt have that problem and you would have 0.0% abv...

Ditto! I just got everything strained today!

If it tastes okay chances are good that it will be fine. You can just siphon from below the surface and not transfer over the floaties.

I think it depends a lot on the yeast and the beer. Generally after a few days you don't have to worry about a blow out. I generally watch it like a hawk for the first couple of days just to be safe. With some of my brews, especially the darker ones, I will change out the airlock two or...

Good to hear! I wasn't quite sure how to respond to the role model thing. I thought it was very thoughtful but I didn't have a good comment for it..... :-)

Yeah I'll be interested in that as well. I think one problem with the steel is the specific heat of the metal. Ie. The aluminum will spread the heat more evenly than steel. I don't know if the aluminum will hold up as well but I do think it will be better for heat distribution. Oh well.. only...

BEST THREAD EVER!!! Yooper you are hilarious, and Creamy, who wouldn't want your action seriously. ... (Ps. Creamy, sorry if I crossed a line there, since I don't know you, but I was just laughing so much at your comment.)

Either. People on here have had great success both ways. I do buckets personally and if I bulk age as mentioned (ie 6 months or more), i use a glass carboy. As long as your sanitation and cleaning is top notch you will be just fine.

Good point about the faucet I didn't think of that!

I am looking to upgrade my kegging system and get some real faucets (no more picnic taps for this guy!:rockin:). Looking at all of the options has been a daunting task but I think I know what I want to do. I want to get 3/16" beer lines (7-10ft), attach them to 1/4" stainless steel tailpieces...

Another option that you have is that you can make a starter of sorts with the wort you make for the beer. I've seen threads where folks will add only a couple of gallons of wort to their primary, pitch the yeast and in 12 hrs or so, add the rest. It's like making a 2 gallon starter to pitch...