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I forgot to mention temp. The lower, the better. I aim for the bottom of the keezer to be 33 degrees, most ideal carbonation volumes are attained most easily that low. I thought beer at higher co2 settings will end up foamy.

Once the beer has carbed, ideal psi for most ales is 7-13. For carbonation though, there are charts to look up for ideal volumes of co2.

I have a couple pounds on hand for various reasons. I love Rye in many styles but have yet to really try those out. Thanks.

Do you have any experience with Cryo Hops? I recently tried to up my Mosaic punch in my IPA by WP hopping with a cryo vs an Aroma addition at 5 min. I've also been First Wort Hopping in a few styles to try and maximize flavor profile overall.

Is there a ratio of Rye to Rice Hulls to aim for?

As much as I like my Better Bottles or the idea of Fermonsters, I would highly recommend in investing in one of the newer conical fermenters, which allows you to harvest yeast more easily batch to batch (which will be a huge money saver especially if you also make starters), as well as making...

FWIW, Flaked Wheat imparts a more distinct wheat flavor than a more standard Wheat Malt. That being said, it's use is much more functional in lower ABV styles such as Witbier (Belgian or German). Having worked at a Belgian Style Brewery for a short while, I don't recall any of our beers using...

Something else to consider is a seasonal brewing style, or using yeasts that do fairly well over 80 F. I've been doing the latter.

I personally don't at the moment, due to lack of space. I don't see myself fermenting more than 2 batches at a time for a little while, but you can easily set up a small fridge or chest freezer with a temp controller for that. Two 6.5G carboys will probably fit in something between 3 and 4 cu...

What kind of malt are you using? Should really only be an issue with some Pilsner malts...

I'm going to second the vote for Grainfather. Not sure if they have a model that yields up to 10 Gal, but I love my Robobrew v3 with pump. I use the smaller model, there's a larger one that brews up to 12 Gal batches, and it runs under $700 from what I've seen. It takes up little room and is...

Just curious how much of a boil-off you have observed on your system. I have moved to 75 min boils just to make sure I'm getting closer to an appropriate volume, since my loss otherwise is pretty minimal between pump/chiller/hop spider.

I'm pretty sure I won't need that for a while. I have had a stout on in the past and the saison currently... as long as I don't plan to have them on simultaneously I'll be good.

I tend to disagree with your first point but I'm curious about your second. The acid from the hops is what helps delay the souring long enough or is it pH that plays a more important role?

Wow. Thanks for the heads up. We just replaced the lid on the keg today with a brand new one and will be kegging the IPA within a week. My LHBS owner tested the keg lid with his co2 from his kegerator, and I was happy to see only one regulator in his setup. I feel a bit vindicated.

Is this still available?

I'm guessing the DME is for the purpose of keeping trub and any sort of solids making it into the barrel?

You don't need much for a first batch, but it's fun to play around with dry hopping them.

Nice. I have the pump. Clogged it the last go round but will get all the crap out with co2 this next brew day. I put the bottom of the mash pipe together wrong [emoji30]

Check out www.eastcoastyeast.com he cultivates a specialty Norwegian yeast that's apparently very clean, ferment temp 90-100 F. I've heard of it finishing a ferment in less than a day.