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First year Cascade from central Florida. 1 bine at 9ft and the other is face level and growing strong.

Tending to the plants today, 1 bine is now face level and starting to produce big, heavy, dark green leaves. The other plant is pushing 2 bines and is a bit shorter at the waist. Both seem healthy and happy in this heat..... For now.

I live on the northeast side of Orlando in the deep burbs. Both of my first year cascades are in 20" pots and are doing quite well. About chest high and moving quick. I chose Cascade because they are a favorite an seem to do well in this lower latitude from what I've seen. There is some guy...

So I purchased the fish emulsion that I you spoke of and used it on both plants last sat. I must say I'm highly impressed and feel foolish that it's taken so long for me to get on board but, wow! I'm a fan! I knew these plants were nitro hungry but, this seems to be the missing link for my...

During the vegetive stage, I'm using the grow formula with a catalyst and the microblast nutrient in a gallon mix. Like sky high said, once the plants begins to concentrate on cones, I'm gonna switch to the Bloom formula and keep with the nutes at every feeding. Just heard about the fish...

I've been using a product called "Earth Juice" and it's been doing a fantastic job. Found it at my local hydroponics store. It says it is all organic and that really means alot to me. It smells terrible, looks gross but, my cascade seem to love it. I plan on using the this line of product...

Me too. I'm in FLA and working on day 4 of steady rain and dreary overcast. Little worried about the girls but, what can ya do you know? My setup drains well so I'm sure it'll be fine guarding against pools, Just won't be watering for awhile. Hopefully it won't wash all the nutrients outta my...

First year rhizomes should be fine in the 20" pot variety. Year 2 you may begin to experience a little root binding and the plant will suffer from it if action is not taken. It's possible to do it but, due to the lack of root space you made to provide extra nutrients to compensate. First year...

I agree with kellanv. Looks kinda like it could be a variety of mosaic virus causing the blisters and wilting around the edges. That explains why the Zeus is normal and healthy while the cascade suffers. Investigate and see if this is a potential evil.

If the water quality is the reason, then why are is the Zeus doing so good? Wouldn't all of the plants be affected the same way? I thought Cascade was the most hardy of hop varieties. Seems like it is something effecting just those plants.

Mine hit the twine 10days ago and are steady climbing everyday. Just below hip high now looking healthy. 1st year Cascade in Florida and doing better than I imagined.

All I can say, "WOW!" the landscape is beautiful. I know it's work but, it must be such a rewarding job. To grow so many plants and harvest thousands of pounds of cones, smells like angels. Thanks for the post. Welcome and PLEASE take more pictures.

1st year growing in central Florida. Thought I'd try and see what happens. So far I've been impressed but, don't know how well it will work.

Once you have your gas plan, attach your keg to the carbon dioxide tank adjusted to the pressure dictated by your gas table and wait. A batch of homebrew is small and the headspace pressure will equilibrate with the beer in about 3 days...

So... Ignoring all the mis-information I have found stating 3-5 days at serving pressure will carbonate my beer, I should just rack to he keg and set it at 30psi for 3 days? This won't over carbonate? What about the carbonation charts and exact CO2 ppm at a set temp? Maybe 30psi gets you in the...

I have read several different publications regarding the time needed to force carbonate my beer with CO2. A few say 3 days, some say 5, and yesterday I read in here that it will be up to 3 weeks before it's perfect. I prefer the set and wait method, and the pumpkin ale I just finished has been...

The one thing you have plenty of is time. There has been no scientific proof you have an infection, only speculation. With that being said, I would just let the beer set. If it is truly harboring bacteria, yeast cannot fix this. Whatever bacteria is present will be the dominant micro-organism...

Agreed. It's already working so as the Beatles say "let it be". Next round... Wash the yeast and pitch a starter.

If you keg beer, you could purge the secondary with CO2 before transfer, or don't secondary at all. Some people say only secondary if your adding fruit,dry hopping or aging beer. Anyway, if you do transfer after primary, the yeast are still active. Just much slower than before. It will push out...

Last beer was an Oktoberfest I left in primary for 4 weeks, and it turned out great. I have had plenty of discussions regarding transfers to 2nd's. Seems to be the consensus that, if you dry hopping, adding fruit or aging the beer then go secondary. If not, I've heard of folks running primary...