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I was thinking why not put the element in the bottom port, but then run the dip tub from the thermometer port and use a silicone hose to extend the pickup to the bottom of the kettle?

I got a chance to help with a brew session at Refuge Brewery on their 5BBL SSBrewtech system. It was alot of fun and it's always to see the similarities and differences of brewing on the pro level. The main thing I learned from that day is that right now it's all about the flameout / whirlpool hops.

In all honesty with a big beer like that you wont taste the difference in yeasts. I would go by potential attenuation and mash up or down to get the body you want. Flavor from the grains will overpower the yeast nuances. Just pick what seems to fit your plan for FG.

Kombucha is awesome on tap. Also consider cold brew coffee!

What is your planned OG? I would personally go with the WLP 090 or WLP 007 as if you finish too sweet then getting the final gravity lower can be difficult even if pitching another yeast. If you end up too dry you can always back sweeten with lactose which is a yummy addition to a stout.

Depends on what residual sweetness you want on the beer. I found the WLP 007 flocks out HARD and left the beer sweeter than I wanted. Not sure if you have considered TYB Dry Belgian, but I did a batch with the Yeast Bays Dry Belgian for a milk stout and it worked awesome. Dried the beer out...

I wonder how this would turn out doing it as a kettle sour?

I have the same kettle and was thinking the same thing, but to use it as a HLT. I would put the element in the thermometer port, and still would be able to recirculate with a pump, so the element being higher wouldn't be an issue.

The scoby always ends up on top which is completely normal. Even if you have a scoby that initially sinks, you will get a new one formed up top. As far as time to brew it's variable. I have a 5 gallon batch that is one month old and it's still too sweet and needs more time. I use to take the pH...

Let it ride. It may not be fermented as clean as could be due to the over temp, but in general blowoff won't be an issue with contamination, but even if it were a big risk I would still let it ferment out and package as usual. If it tastes good, awesome. If not, no harm no foul.

I usually do the same. Run boiling wort through the chiller to sanitize. After the brew session I will immediately backflush the chiller and pump with water. I don't do a PBW flush each time, but will do it after a sour beer. I just finished a kettle sour and as a precaution against your...

Agree 100% Also if you rack out of the kettle, that means you would have to clean it twice! I left mine in the kettle with hoses still attatched to the pump and plate chiller to avoid having to clean everything twice. Once your done souring, towards the end of the boil run the pump to ensure...

I have a kettle sour going right now... kettle sours are just that, soured in the kettle. This means that on the cold side the routine is the same and there is zero problem with cross contamination. My routine is all follows. Mash as usual. Boil for 5-10 minutes to kill any unwanted yeast or...

It looks like a decent purchase... essentially a brew bucket with legs. I don't see why that won't be a good purchase.

So you brewed the tea, fermented with yeast, then used the scoby to sour? I have been trying to figure out how to do beerbucha or whatever you want to call it... how did it work? Taste good?

I don't... I converted my Edelmetal Bru Burner to natural gas and have never looked back!

I have gotten mold only when used with a bucket that has seen wort... I have had 5 gallons in a glass carboy for a few months and haven't seen anything resembling mold.

This thread was good for a hearty laugh...

I love Berleiners and mild sours with burgers. Also brut IPA's are good.

Here is what beersmith says... overall seems like a simple recipe that should be a easy drinker.