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It was a 2L starter. I was running low on DME at the time. Plus the beer was only ~ 1.05

After the beer is cooled, or below 80 degrees, it is important to get it aerated and get the yeast in there. You want to introduce your good yeast before any wild yeast that may be floating around gets in your wort and causes off-flavors. The more yeast you pitch, the better. I always do a yeast...

So I made a post on a motorcycle forum about my first brew day. I tried to explain the basics while showing pics of equipment. I would really appreciate it if you guys would glance and see if I am doing any of this stuff completely wrong. First off, next time I brew outside and elevate my cooker...

Once I get a hold of a cut-off saw things will start looking a lot more interesting. The T's I have hilighted in red will need around an 1/8 of an inch taken off in order to cram them all in there. Then they will be soldered and notches cut into the T's as well as the regular pipe. I haven't...

Yeah, other than the animal hairs that are stuck to some of the T's.. :D I definitely need to get some alcohol to those things to get the glue off that held the bar codes on.. I soaked all my fittings in PBW but it didn't dissolve that type of glue...

So I finally got some time to mess around with the manifold.. I am going to try one more thing that I think will help uniformity before I call it complete. Then it will be time to cut the slots. But this is what I have now... The drain hole in the cooler was too small for my bulkhead, 1/2"...

It would actually be more difficult that way.. A street 90 up from the bulkhead and a T is actually taller than I can achieve with two street 45's out of the bulkhead and over to that center drain.

So this is an alternate design.. If I went this way, I would solder all T's that are in the center of the cooler and put slots in them as well as the pipes. Do you guys like option A or option B? I have already mocked up the lowest member in the picture and it will actually go just behind the...

I used the orientation it is in at the moment based on Palmer's "how to brew". With the T's along the long side of the cooler, it ensures I don't drain near the wall... I am wondering if my new idea is even worth the change. It would basically make the draining slightly less uniform but would...

So the question of whether or not this thing was over-thought is pretty self-explanatory.. :o If you thought it was ridiculous now, just wait. I will hopefully post pics of the new, final, design tonight. many changes were made but for the good. :rockin:

My understanding is if the water level went below the raised portion and air was able to get by the fittings, it would lose siphon and would only drain to basically the bottom of the raised portion. Those parts, at least, would need to be soldered.. Originally, I was going to have three drain...

I was given this rectangular cooler and am considering using this setup for my mash tun manifold. It isn't official but I was wondering what you guys think. Cost really isn't an issue since I got to return my 10 gallon igloo cooler! :ban: I really wanted to incorporate two different drain...

I am traveling for work and picked up some Bell's Best Brown Ale. I can't help but notice, at the end of the glass, that it has the exact same mouth feel previously described as a metallic taste that my beer at home does. What is this from? Mine at home is 10X the intensity of the beer I am...

I have been using tap water that has been treated with campden tablets only. I did rule out the scorching from the pot contributing majorly to the bitterness yesterday.. I basically brought my steeped grains up to boiling before I added any extract and tasted the mixture. There was no off...

I did another batch today with a thin piece of aluminum (.025") and am still getting the scorch markings on the bottom of my pot.. :(

My first batch, ever, was a paulaner hefeweizen clone. It turned out excellent. This was kegged straight out of the primary. All my attempts have used an immersion chiller which is added the last 10-15 minutes of the boil. The second batch was a german helles bock. This was bottled after...

The fermentation seems strong. Lots of bubbles (in the wine itself). I wondered when I was making this why it wasn't necessary to agitate it a lot to get the oxygen count higher right before I pitched the yeast.. If I have an air lock, will stirring it help at all?

I am fermenting a gallon now. It smells like eggs. Hard boiled eggs. Is this normal? Everyone in the apartment was wandering around trying to figure out where the smell was coming from. I can say that the yeast had a similar smell, but the beer I have brewed didn't have an eggy smell.

So I brewed my first 5 gallon batch and kegged it a week ago. Hefeweizen extract kit. I followed the rules religiously as found in Palmer's 'How to brew'. As for force carbonating, I got some help on the forum. The whole batch is just incredible. Amazing if I say so myself. I did a...

lol. I scanned the bottling/kegging section and just skipped over that thread because I had never heard of a beer gun. thanks alot!