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I would be worried about the give/flex in the joints between the various pieces. When you are using a CP filler you need to hold it on the bottle with a little force as the pressure is created in the bottle and at that point I think your design will flex and you'll have to hold the stopper in...

Cool, thanks.

Would you leave in the keg sealed, and is it better warm rather than cold? I'm unsure whether there's a need to let the sulphur be released as gas or whether it attaches to yeast and drops out. Maybe a bit of both.

I would expect that it's sacc trois in there too. I just wondered if it or the other yeasts in this blend compensate with glycerol production to provide that extra mouthfeel.

I have a NEIPA planned and picked up the Hazy Daze II blend from the Yeast Bay to give it a go. Does anyone have any experience or tips for using it? I’m particularly interested in the effect the higher level of attenuation that this blend of yeast has. Do I need to compensate for it in any way?

That was also my thought on reading my friend's water analysis. It suggests adding 17ml of 80% lactic acid to every 25 litres of liquor, in order to reduce 212ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 down to 40ppm. It was only today having seen the product sheet linked in the first post of this thread that...

I stumbled across this thread after having some similar confusion over lactic acid's ability to neutralise alkalinity. While I can't contribute to the chemistry discussion above, I can contribute that Murphy's have conflicting data on their website. Going through their resources their latest...

Definitely recommend lubing up the seals. It helps them seat better. Aside from that be sure it's the lid leaking, and not something else (e.g a disconnect/small split in hose).

I have one of these, and while it's expensive, it worked perfectly from the first time. You get a bit of foaming as you remove the filler from the bottle, but it does mean you cap on foam and it's not excessive. I currently use it with an extension to a liquid disconnect to fill straight from...

What ppm Oxygen do you end up with?

I'm a bit late to contribute here, but wanted to say @kmarkstevens that if you decide to come to London then you're always welcome at a meet up of London Amateur Brewers. Send me a DM when you're thinking of coming over. While perhaps you get an overall higher quality of real ale up North, if...

Water chemistry might be something, but I'd always look at fermentation first. Most homebrews have a certain amount of alcohol on the nose compared to commercial beers.

I'm a big fan of the Thermapen for speed of reading, and it's one of the first brewing upgrade gadgets I recommend to new brewers. Having said that I'd really suggest going for the Mk4/Professional model because I'm not sure the Mk3/Classic stands up well to brewing. After using my Mk3 for...

Yes, you can sparge that grain, but you don't have to. Recirculating systems are pretty good at rinsing the grain already so while sparging will gain a few points of efficiency, it really won't be a lot.

Saison Dupont is the classic. Boulevard Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale might be more readily available. A saison will generally have a mix of esters and phenols, will be quite spicy, maybe with hints of herb or fruits. Fairly similar to a Belgian Pale Ale, but can be light or dark, session or strong ale.

It can get to 75%, you just need a lower rest temperature in there to help push the sugar balance in the wort towards the shortest chain sugars. I can only guess that this yeast is not very good at fermenting maltotriose - the longest chained fermentable sugar, so you need to maximise your use...

For one thing, I'll say they work. I had a saison recently where 2 weeks after bottling I opened a swing top bottle and found it quite oxidised, but a crown cap bottle wasn't. It was the same for the whole batch - all the swing tops were oxidised, but the crown caps were fine. The swing tops...

Looking at my notes I concur. When I've managed to drive the gravity down it's been by starting with a rest at 63c/145f and then raising it to 69c/156f after half an hour. That should achieve ~75% apparent attenuation. A straight rest at 67C/153F only achieves 65% apparent attenuation...

The big commercials also tend to use equipment that allows them to dry hop without introducing oxygen, like Dogfish Head's hop cannon. If you can put the hops in a rocket or similar and then make up a sealed recirculation loop (ideally flushed with CO2 first) then you can achieve similar.

Oxidation is the enemy of hop aroma, so I'd be very wary of any process that might introduce oxygen or reduce CO2 concentration. There's a pretty good chance that improvements in hop oil extraction will be offset by extra oxidation. Could you get the beer into the keg early and add dry hops...