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My LHBS charges the same amount no matter which hops I choose, Same with grains? I guess the owner wants to keep in simple... Without calculating the #3 invert sugar, beer smith is telling me that the SRM is 25. Which is not super dark, but it fits into the brown porter category that I chose...

Looking forward to an easy brew day! Based mine on a Whitbread recipe from "The Homebrewers Guide to Vintage Beer", and the recipe I made in beersmith looks similar to yours. It has the brown malt, chocolate malt and invert sugar. I normally use maris otter in my UK syle beers, but decided...

I like clear beer. They are clear when I keg them, but sometimes I get what I think is chill haze when they go in the kegerator. Rolling boil, wort chiller and still sometimes a batch will haze. Usually an extract batch. Sometimes, I forget the irish moss, and that is on me. Past that, I am...

My next brew is going to be similar to you austerity porter. Its a version a vintage recipe I found for one produced around 1940. A Spitfire Kentish Ale clone has been my favorite English brew that I have made to date. It turned out to be remarkably similar to the commercial version.

A refractometer that I picked up on a black friday special.

Recipe sounds good.

I have also brewed a coopers can I bought from my LHBS that was well past the date, 8 months or so. Coopers wheat. I used it and the yeast as part of a Blue Moon Type recipe, and the beer turned out fine. It was also darker than it was supposed to be, but for this brew, it didn't really matter.

If you read my post, you will see that I was talking about bottling. That said, one can easily bottle from the keg (A used keg can be had for $30; a small bottle can be had for $50; regulators are cheap on amazon; hose, picnic taps and pin locks are a couple bucks). Its not messy, which...

I bottled my first few batches of cider, and I made a similar mess until I got the hang of the bottling bucket. When I brewed my first batch of beer, I switched to kegging. Just didn't want to deal with bottling, storing, cleaning, etc. 53 bottles of beer each time I brew, or deal with all...

Bar keepers friend is also an acid. Its great for scrubbing boat decks too! I find that if I clean my kettle right after I fill the fermeter, then hot water is usually enough to get it clean.

Beer seems very resilient. That is awesome that your also turned out good. I have brewed many batches in the kitchen without incident, but the move outside, encouraged by my wife, nearly got me. haha I have done three since then, and they all went better than the first.

Good point on subbing yeast. It can make significant difference. I also like Nottingham for English Ales. For whatever reason, I also like the Muntons yeast, and I have made some good BIAB Ales with it. One I would recommend using the Coopers yeast on is their Australian Pale Ale. That...

Starsan, an acid, in the kettle may explain the metallic taste, especially if your kettle is aluminum. The only thing I use to clean my kettle is hot water. Its going to be boiled, sterilized anyway.

Technically, yes. I think so. I have have had good luck "steeping" them with grains. 150-154 for 20 -30 minutes, like one would if preparing an extract plus specialty grains batch.

Oaked Brown Ale A few weeks ago I decided to move my brewing outside and to do full volume boils when doing extract batches. Result, near disaster. My first brew day was a beautiful sunny day, but very windy windy. I got everything laid out and organized by time of addition, set up all my...

I built a beer engine like the one shown in BYO magazine, with the rocket pump, and I have been through several kegs of ale without any issues? No plastic taste, etc. If I am going to let it sit for a long period of time, I just run some hot water and then star san through it first.

I have done quite of few of the cans before moving on to specialty grains plus extracts and all grain, and I still brew one once in a while when I don't have time for a full brew day. Here are my observations. 1. I don't boil the pre-hopped extract. Instead I add it after flame out. 2...

That Coopers can should be pre-hopped. When I do a Coopers kit, I add the contents of the Coopers can just after flame out so whatever hop character the Coopers folks put in the can comes through in the beer. Made some pretty good beers from those cans too.

Samuel Smith Winter Welcome Clone Poor Richards Ale Yorkshire Bitter

I wanted to thank the OP for posting this. I had nearly the same scenario unfold today on my second all grain batch. Mashed in, mash temp too low, but because of this thread I at least had an idea of what to do. Added hot water to get mash temp up. Wound up 1.058 on an expected 1.064 pre...