Search results

Anyone else find that supremely ****ed up? :eek: PS: All the best to you, Revvy! You'll be fine; this stuff is run-of-the-mill these days! :) Besides, HBT needs you!

This is one case where I would dump it. Glass/lead/mercury in beer is not good. Glass is not a huge deal, but heavy metals? Why even risk it. This is one situation I'd dump it.

Primo man! I might have to make another one just for carbonating/chilling kegs before moving them to the kegerator!

BTW any Canadians interested, the 4.4 CF fridge shown above is on sale $50 off this week, $199.99

Here it's still the 80% continuous, doesn't matter which room. And GFCI protection depends on distance from the sink/tub/water appliance. The OP says he lives in an older apartment building, though. I doubt he has #12 or #10 wire feeding his kitchen, let alone a 20-amp or GFI plug. I also...

Right on brother! Enjoy! I'm glad it helped :) Can you post pics of the inside also?

EDIT (corrections underlined): I see some issues with this setup: 1) 2000w at 120v is over 18amps continous (because, in reality, you're running more like 110v) Correction: if you experience voltage drop to 110v, you would get less heat (1680 watts) and draw 15.3amps. 2) 20-amp...

Some of us are :)

I hope you tinned (soldered solid) the ends of the wires to prevent fraying and fire. The screws and terminals on the receptacle and thermostat aren't meant to hold stranded wire. Also, when connecting wires to screws, you should attach them in a clock-wise fashion around the screw, so that...

I was JUST thinking about La Fin du Monde in the shower. Seriously; like 10 minutes ago. No kidding. Eerie.

But officer, Sir John A MacDonald did it!

Yes, that's correct. CO2 is heavier than air (O2--oxygen--included), it's the same reason people die of asphyxiation in enclosed areas where there is a leak; it displaces the air (and oxygen). I was more concerned about disturbing the yeast physically than oxidizing the beer.

Chances are you don't have one, and that's fine. If you have one, you could remove it as it isn't necessary. If you want to keep it, make sure the line is only long enough to bring the stone a couple inches off the bottom of the keg (not all the way to the bottom near the dip tube) That's...

Cool man I'm thinking of making a keg freezer just to keep them cold and to carbonate them. Be sure to post your pics! :) I can't wait for my beer to be ready lol! :mug:

Haha can you tell I have no SWMBO to answer to? :P

This thing. It is connected to your CO2 tube with a hose. When I first started, I bought it all pre-assembled and the diffuser/stone (shown above) was too low in the Keg, and it was sitting right next to the intake of the beer dip tube. So basically, every time I would pour beer, the bubbles...

Do you have a carbonation stone/diffuser inside your corny keg? If it is too low, the beer dip tube might actually draft some of the bubbles up (this was happening to me for a while and it took me way too long to to figure out why--my stone was right next to my dip tube intake--duh).

Two thumbs up! Would make a neat logo with a story behind it! :)

Rock the canned kits man. They're fine for your situation. When you have the money and time again, look at more custom setups. For now, go with a Coopers kit or a Brew Canada kit. I agree that instead of transferring to secondary, you should just leave it in the primary for longer (3 weeks at...

That's a good point too, especially in the plastic carboys. The plastic lids on my pails aren't exactly air tight (I rarely see airlock movement, regardless of how much fermentation...it comes out around rim). Because the bung would make such a good seal on a plastic carboy at the opening of...