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I have the same deadline for thx giving. I will be doing a dry hopped blonde that I will ferment at 68 degrees to insure it finishes in time for me to dry hop, cold crash, and keg.

High 60s is fine for a lot of yeasts. For a party that isn't full of beer geeks, I like to please the masses with a blonde or Pils which you shouldn't find any trouble fermenting in the high 60s. For some reason WL011 is my favorite yeast, and I wouldn't hesitate fermenting anything with it in...

Ok, thanks. I guess I will need to drink my IPA a little faster in order to get another brew going. I'll also start looking for a mini fridge for my keg I suppose. Thanks

Sorry, this was some what of a drunk post. What I'm interested in is lagering a beer in the same freezer that has my keg while still enjoying the beer in the keg. I suppose I'll just need to look at the lagering temps and decided if I want to put my kegged beer through those kind of temp changes.

Sorry to get off topic. Just a little dish soap residue could kill head retention. Rinse everything before and after you use it, but your carboy should be the only thing you need to use soap on. But since you put your chiller in late, it may be a good thing you washed it with soap first. All...

I really only have room for a deep freeze and a keezer/ fermenter at my in laws house. I'm thinking about lagering and keezing in the same keezer/ fermenter.I feel that keg temp varying some below serving temp then above serving temp due to adjusting lagering temps, won't matter much as long as...

Yes, this was my point. 21 lbs for a five gallon batch at that SG will be pretty much just first runnings. Unless you sparge the **** out of it and boil off 10 gals for a much higher efficiency.

Also a little food grade silicone lube works well with the hand capers

I bottle over an igloo cooler. It drips a little but not enough to worry about

I skimmed every response and didn't notice this mentioned. stop cleaning your chiller with dish soap. It is unnecessary and can possibly ruin your head.

A very short rinse with star San will remove any leftover oxyclean residue

You better dump it to be safe. And if you got any on yourself you better go get checked by your doctor.

Something to consider is going to your local brewery and asking if you can buy some yeast. Of course this may not be economical for some.

It takes a lot of water to mash 21 lbs. this means that if you are going for 5 gallons, you won't be sparging. 40% is about right if you aren't able to wash the grain with a sparge due to that fact that you will have a 15 gallon pre boil volume and have to boil off 10 gallons if you sparged

I confess that I always brew with the same friend. I always go to the LHBS myself, I do all of the work on brew day, I ferment in my fridge, I fill his keg for him and deliver it to his house, he pays me for ingredients. It's either that or brew alone .

make sure that you keep and eye on your air lock during the crash. The liquid from your airlock or blowoff tube will suck up into the carboy

I would guess I would need to buy extra burners to do that. I only have one burner and two coolers. Anyway my LHBS was sold out of pumps, so I bought a $49 5lb steel co2 tank and a $69 regulator. I'll be drinking out of my keg in a couple weeks. Thanks again

Thanks for the replies. You may have been able to tell by the tone of the post that I was leaning towards the pump. I always brew 10 gals with a friend, so he helps me lift. But he will only brew IPAs and I'm getting sick of his ****. If I want to brew a blonde or a wit, I'm on my own. If I make...

I have some funds to spend at my LHBS and I can't decide between a co2 tank and regulator ( I have a keg and keezer) or a chugger pump. It would help a ton if I had a pump for hot water and wort transfer instead of lifting all of that weight, especially when I do 10 gal batches. I am young and...

My user name is my real Given name, and Thomas Paine was a cool dude. Plus there is a pretty good English ale named after him.