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Congratulations! Yes the ABV may be a little lower than planned, but so what. Drink more! That trub will settle and compact. My fermentations usually are active within 4 hours, but sometimes longer, so don't worry if it takes considerably longer. Depends on amount of yeast pitch, wort temp, type...

Half gallon. 7.75 gal into the fermenter and 7.25 gal out. I lose an extra quart or so on IPAs with massive charges of hot and cold (dry) hops.

From a practical standpoint, oxygenate to 10 ppm and pitch. No worries about losing the DO. Wort can hold 10 ppm in equilibrium with air, so you are not going to lose much of it. There are a number of "Well actually..." caveats to this statement, of course, such as wort vs. distilled water, sea...

Here's my first/last experience with the paint strainer bag: As always, my hops went commando in the BK, but I put the paint strainer in the fermenter as I transferred, thinking I would then pull out the bag full of hops and leave more space for wort in the fermenter. To my surprise, the bag was...

An increase in temperature can be beneficial, but I always wonder about "free" rise vs. "controlled" rise. Why not choose the temp you want and control to it? I probably think about this more than most because I brew in the cold much of the year. To me, free rise means DECREASED temperatures...

Rinsing with tap water that contains chlorine or chloramines should not cause an issue due to the very low concentrations in the final beer. You wouldn't want to use untreated water with chloramines as your brewing water. I don't think chlorinated water usually causes a problem, even as brewing...

More oxygen will dissolve into the wort at lower temperatures, so it is somewhat better to chill first, then aerate. In general, you won't lose the dissolved oxygen if you aerate first, because it is dissolved, and chilling will not cause dissolved oxygen to come out of solution.

Sanitize the bung, then dry it with a clean paper towel before inserting. Try not to wipe any rogue microbes on it while drying.

Type 5: Refuse to be labeled.

Congratulations! (I dodged the mic)

WLP 007 is evil. I won't use it anymore. It stopped, pretended to be finished, then kicked into high gear after bottling. Bottle bombs. Tried to save the rest by bleeding pressure. Bled pressure again and again and again and many, many more times after that. If I knew then what I think I know...

It will ferment, but I think you will be very disappointed with it. I suggest dumping and starting over.

As noted, fridges are often free. I have a couple extra free fridges at the moment. My fermenters require a lot more heating than cooling, so a free fridge makes a great fermentation chamber. STC is a fun little project.

Thank you for the article. I would like to do this one day. Question: Is there a way to know whether you would be any good at the tasting part? I suspect that there is a small percentage of people who are really good at it because they are born super-tasters. Then, there are a bunch of regular...

Right. My bad.

Welcome! I think I rode a bike right by your house. (I've done RAGBRAI a few times.)

Sure. Just remember to inform everyone who drinks this beer that it contains a small amount of sanitary dinosaur snot. Full disclosure. Ha! That reminds me: Someone told me the other day, "We're pretty transparent around here." It's true. I could see right through him. Okay, I've caused...

This cannot continue. :) Here's what you do: 1) Start brewing 5 gal batches of Slobber, because you love it! 2) Start using those 1 gal fermenters to experiment with other beers, starting with variations of Brown Ales, if you must. 3) Thank me one year from now. Tell me all about lupulin...

Best wishes! Tell them to get it right this time. That's nonsense having to endure the same procedure twice. :) Good luck, and let us know when all is okay as you drink your Pils.

Would you eat them with a tire? Would you eat them while on fire? Eat them, eat them, @buzd you was.