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The BrewTroller forum has some discussions around using pressure transducers. What they are doing is effectively creating a sealed sight glass and measuring the air pressure at the top of the sight glass. The last time I looked at it, they were running into accuracy issues during the boil, with...

Dave- I have not put together a parts list yet, but am currently working on documenting my particular RIMS setup on my website, mersonbrewing.com. Shortly I will have the wiring schematic up for my control box. As far as the hlt, yes, with an additional valve manifold. Right now I am able to...

Just use a piece of plywood. It has great thermal characteristics.

I use a PID from Auber Instruments. Given my current calibration, I have found that I have to set my temp 2 degrees below my target, let it overshoot, then about 20 minutes into the mash as the temperature has stabilized I can slowly raise the PID up the final 2 degrees. That generally keeps me...

What is the model? What is the seal material?

Got Mine! I have been looking around for my upcoming system upgrade.

Interesting. I have never thought about trying to run fluid in reverse through a march pump. I have not disassembled the head, but since it is a magnetically impelled pump mechanism, I would not expect to do any damage to the motor. Not sure about the actual pump head mechanism. I am not a...

As an IT Pro I can say yes, off the shelf, purpose built components are plug-n-play. Unfortunately, we are not doing off the shelf, purpose built here. I did see that McMaster-Carr has pin terminals. You can probably also get these at Radio Shack.

As I look at your design more, I am liking your idea for the heat on demand water supply. I would suggest, though, that you independently switch both heater elements. You can use both when adding water to the system, but I predict that during recirculation, the first rims tube will form a...

With the masses we are talking about, combined with the flow rate, I feel that a pid is necessary. With a simple love, probe placement will be critical. If the element is simply on, and dumping hot water onto the top of the grain bed, it may take a while for the wort coming out of the bottom of...

I think you guys are still getting your wires crossed, except trigger who suggested soldering to the pins. ScubaSteve is talking about connecting to the pins in the lower half of the picture, not the spade connectors at the top of the connectors. Given the amount of heat that a ssr gives off...

You do need a ground from the rims tube itself, in case something goes horribly wrong. Most hot water heater elements only have the 2 poles that you connect the hot and neutral wires to. If, somehow the rims tube itself becomes charged, you need to provide a route to ground, other than you...

My RIMS tube is grounded by using a hose clamp around the tube to attach a ground wire connected to the 3 wire supply cord I have attached to the heater element back to the common ground in the control box.

I built mine with all npt fittings and could not get my heater element to catch more than the first thread, so I bought a cheap tap on ebay to re-cut the bushing for the heater element to nps. I did not worry about buying a high dollar tap since I would only need it once. It definitely has a few...