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Looks like a Munich Helles. Grain bill, hop additions and yeast are all spot on.

End of the boil. 5 to 10 min is good.

For information on testing the hardness and alkalinity, check this out: http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=At_home_water_testing It's cheap and easy. If you want to remove chlorine, you can simply just boil the water and it will evaporate.

Extra headspace is not an issue for the beer. I regularly double and triple batch into my oversized fermenters, and on the rare occasion that I do a single batch, I have never encountered any problems due to excess headspace.

Put your digital temp probe in a jar of water, and then note how much it overshoots. You can adjust your lower bound until it hits your target. I run this setup on two freezers, one for primary, and one to lager.

I always use a nylon bag. I just dunk it in some StarSan first, throw my hops in and tie it off. Since then, no clogging. Saves a lot of headache. Very little difference in aroma, but I sometimes add an extra .5oz of hops.

Mainly aroma. I brew a cream ale regularly and dry hop it with cascade as well. Just my preference, but it adds a some nice complexity.

Kid rock, Devil without a cause, wasting time

Yeah, no effect. I sometimes fill my air lock with cheap vodka or sanitizer.

You are correct, I also have had problems with too low of an initial fermentation temp on a few ales and weizens. This lower temp didn't hurt the flavor too drastically, but it did take significantly longer to ferment down to final gravity. I should think you are safe.

I use 2 oz chinook to bitter, and add .25 oz cascade at 5 minute intervals from 30 minutes on for a total of 2 oz. I get great bitter, and good flavor, in addition to my flame out and dry hop additions.

I second kpr121, it seems that crop matters greatly when using Citra or Simcoe to bitter. I've had mixed results myself.

California Common, dry hopped with Cascade.

In general you won't see bubbles for 24 hours. Your higher OG shouldn't inhibit your yeast too much. The higher OG is due to the lower volume than the recipe specified. And finally, using that method for siphoning can be hit and miss. Check out youtube for some videos on how to siphon...

Citra is definitely fruity, whereas Simcoe is piney. I have done all Citra and all Simcoe IPAs, but have never mixed them before. Not to say that you can't mix them. I might separate the Citra into the flavoring addition along with the Amarillo, and use the Simcoe for aroma and possibly dry...

From what I understand, the type of hop over time doesn't matter as the alpha acids that impart the aroma during the dry hop period do not go through any molecular transformation as they would during the boil.

I have also heard the complaint that it inhibits fermentation, however I have never personally experienced that before. As for grassy, I had a Cascade Ale that I dry hopped with Chinook/Willamette go grassy after three weeks in secondary.

I regularly dry hop Cascade and Chinook togethet, as well as Columbus in my American Pale Ale. It makes for a fantastic aroma. I highly recommend this combination.

American Pale Ale, dry hoped with Cascade, Chinook and Columbus.

I've brewed a Citra IPA that was bittered with Chinook and then Citra the rest of the way, including a healthy dry hopping. Fantastic mango nose.