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Thanks! I'll continue to run the water to empty the reservoir/pump, it's not mine (I rent the space) and don't want a tonne of someone else's dirty toilet water backing-up into the brewery...

I have my little brewery in a basement and use the "soak" method to disinfect my fermenter. This is run out into a reservoir/pump contraption that pumps the liquid up a large pipe and out into the regular municipal waste water. For the moment, I have been running a lot of water while/after...

What Erik said.... If you filter it and remove the yeast, you will need to force carbonate it prior to bottling. That's a potential pain. There are a few things you can do to make your beer clearer without filtering: - Add finings - Chill the beer down to 1.5°C in the fermenter after...

Adding only sugar will make the beer more alcoholic, but will not bring anything in terms of flavour or body to the beer (meaning it'll be thin and alcoholic). If you want to go that route, it would likely be cheaper to purchase some dextrose (aka Priming Sugar / Corn Sugar). I would do what...

There are a lot of different ways of producing as a microbrewery, one example is a 3 vessel Sudhaus (Hot Liquor Tank, Mash/Lauter Tun, Kettel), or a 5 vessel Sudhaus (Hot liquor tank, Cold Liquor tank, Mash tun, Lauter tun, Kettle), plus pumps, hoses, stainless tubing and large stainless...

The only advice I can offer Welcome to brewing and to the forum! Education is the key to brewing beer well. Unfortunately, I can only recommend you continue reading. And this university level book is the only one you should buy: Technology Brewing and Malting (6th) | VLB Berlin Only joking...

Yeah, I know, I was posting that more as a warning to using rainwater. Although locally the tap water is 50% rainwater (reservoirs) mixed with water from wells and the lake... I can't PM you, likely because my post number is now 10.... But I'm on the shores of western Europe's largest lake...

Last weekend it rained mud here, not joking. Ultra-fine sand / dust from the Sahara gets blown up into the atmosphere and it then migrated north in the clouds. The clouds were visibly "yellow/orange" and it rained orange mud, not a raindrop with a tiny bit of sand, we're talking thick brown...

As mentioned in the article: "PTFE is completely stable up to +260˚C (500˚F). Decomposition is slow up to 400°C (750°F). Decomposition will occur on contact with open flames. " So yes, it should be fine with boiling. But don't get it near open flame, nor exceed 260°C / 500°F If you are truly...

I would say you have not much to worry about... A wikipedia article on Thread Seal Tape notes: "Temperature Range: -268°C to +260°C (-450°F to +500°F). PTFE is completely stable up to +260˚C (500˚F). Decomposition is slow up to 400°C (750°F). Decomposition will occur on contact with open...

Long run, ie over the life of the vessel or bag. I'm not saying one is better than the other, only that a single bucket system will likely last longer than the a single bag.

Not bad, when I started out it didn't exist, so I had "fun" with a plastic bucket and an electric drill for about an hour.. I still have the plastic bucket setup somewhere. I imagine the bags do have to be replaced after a certain number of brews? So for economy, I would think the plastic...

This is true. It's like a lot of "hobbies", you never buy the most expensive bicycle when starting out, because you don't know if you will keep riding and don't want to take a bath on it . Some people say that people used to get into brewing their own beer because it was supposed to be cheaper...

Thanks, I will check those out!

Education... read and absorb all you can about brewing. John Palmer's website (and book) can help quite a bit: Brewing All-Grain Beer - How to Brew

Where I am, Wyeast 3463 is no longer available for purchase (the importer has stopped carrying it) which is a real pain as I use it in one of my "house" beers. I have read online that White Labs WLP720 Sweet Mead may be a substitute, but has anyone already tried it? I ask as the local homebrew...