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I just got all my parts for this, what did you guys use to cut the plastic? I'm not sure if i want to spring for a Dremel tool just yet.

Is he going to do welds? If they are sanitary it's worth it. Maybe so if not. I know weldless bulkheads cost at least $20-30, a stainless valve may be like $15, a thermometer cost maybe $30 and i haven't priced a sight glass. Assuming all stainless: 3 bulkheads - $60-$90 Thermometer- $30...

Yeah, my bad! Admittedly, I don't understand the microbiology of it or anything, I'm just going on what Dr. Chris White of White Labs has said.

Lite Weight! :p lol

That's not exactly what i was getting at. It's the sugars in your wort the nix the yeast, before they are hydrated they cant cope too well.

You can brew a 10 gallon batch and split it up to two carboys, you don't have to keg them both up at the same time. I have 3 carboys generally / batch and i keg each one up one at a time. It's kind of nice this way because by the time i get around to the 3rd carboy the beer has matured a bit...

With dry yeast it's a good idea to rehydrate it. Apparently when yeast are dry they are real susceptible to whatever they come into contact with, before they are hydrated their cell walls will let in contaminates that will kill a bunch of the yeast and knock down your overall viability up to...

+1 Nottingham!

I'm surprised it says to direct pitch, maybe that's why they recommend using two! Direct pitching can kill up to %50 your viability, so yeah I'd definitely rehydrate it.

I've pitched on packet s-04 into 10+ gallons @ 1.06 and it worked just fine for me. But to be technical, I can read the package here: http://www.williamsbrewing.com/SAFALE-US-05-DRY-ALE-YEAST-P1482.aspx It Says: 11.5g (1 package) good for 20-30 liters (5-7.5 gallons), i'd assume that...

Generally those packets are good for a beer up to 1.05 / 5 gal. SO two makes sense to me, but i've under pitched straight in my nievity and it always worked out so suit yourself.

Don't secondary until you hit your target gravity from now on, pulling your beer off the yeast before it's done wont help it attenuate. Sounds like your temps are good, i'd keep it at 70-74F, maybe rouse the yeast with a swirl of the carboy. I just had a bunch of stuck beer and i pitched...

Sweet, just saved $20! I did buy one already and it was about $180, dont know why its up now on that site... I checked it out, its a nice pot with a sandwiched bottom and all the good stuff. Bought a false bottom from homebrewstuff.com...

Ten gallon batches are for suckas!

Keggles are a cheap way to go, i get a little under 15 gallons in a batch. Dont be a wuss - just fill you kettle up near the rim and SLOWLY bring it to a boil. I have amazed the skeptics who say it will boil over - poppycock!!! It boils down a bit but i just drain a little more out of my...

You'll have to aerate/oxygenate it somehow, other than that i can't imagine why you couldn't. I put a lot of break into my fermenters without any problem that i can tell. Of course you will be tying up your kettle while you ferment, and i would not be willing to do that myself. You could...

I imagine all ya need is to replace each one with a rectangular piece of stainless.

Thanks for the link, camiller. I know it can be debated endlessly. IMO it's just another unnecessary risk, so why take it. Too much toxic exposure in my life as it is and my beer is sancrosanct. Sorry to derail the thread, other than the paddles, i really like that mash stirrer build...

Keggle cutting jig