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Have you ever taken apart your ball-lock fittings to give them a good cleaning, re-assembled, then hooked back up a fresh keg of IPA with a borderline ridiculous amount of pricey hops, only to come back a few days later, realize you forgot one of the o-rings in the ball lock fitting, so now your...

www.biabCalculator.com is what I use. The stock value of 0.045 is no-squeeze. I use 0.035 when squeezing and prolonged dripping and that works for me. I note it on my brew log and make small adjustments each batch, and at this point 0.035 works for me.

I'm always leery of aluminum in relation to beer - the pH can damage the aluminum, and potentially leech out the aluminum into the wort itself. Titebond III would work for glue; per their website, "Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for...

The temperature calculators on it work very well for me. You can also try running off a gallon or so into a separate pot and boiling that down to syrup to get the caramelized flavors using a smaller pot and then doing a shorter overall boil. The point of the long boil in a scotch ale is those...

www.biabCalculator.com If you reduce your boil-off rate and your boil time, you can mash a lot more than 15#. Given your specifications, your total mash volume comes out to 10.13 gallons, so you are at the limit. Why are you boiling so hard and for so long?

Wouldn't that be a dubbel? Styles are very different - a marzen is going to have a clean malt flavor, where the Belgian yeasts are going to do their thing with the esters and phenols. Nothing wrong with it, of course, and I love Belgian styles for their yeast character.

I have a couple of buckets that leak through the lid seals instead of bubbling out the airlock. There is an easy way to test - use some duct tape around the edge of the lid/bucket. After that, I decided to RDWHAHB about it - the gas is escaping, nothing can reasonably get it, so it should be fine.

The starter size and yeast pitch rate is a decision you can make. Stressing the yeast with a smaller pitch may increase the phenolic character, potentially at the expense of attenuation. A bigger pitch can help with attenuation, but may diminish the yeast character. I personally like a little...

I made a Medusa IPA not too long ago (see some notes here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/omega-oyl-501-gulo.663426/). Bought the hops from Yakima on Black Friday. Paired it with a bit of Azacca and was happpy with the results. The AA was really, really low, so even using a full...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/boulevard-smokestack-series-tank-7-farmhouse-ale-clone.250256/ Weighs in at 8%, so that may be why I like it so much. I used that grain bill a couple of times and it works really well for a saison. I think you may have a little too much going on...

Finished the cold crash and kegged mine today. FG was round 1.008 - not quite as low as I wanted, but oh well. Medusa and Azacca combo came through nicely - cherry and stone fruit come up front, with a little bit of pine and resin in the background, and no dankness at all. Some residual...

If you mash was at 73° C (164° F), that is outside the ideal window and near the top end of alpha amylase activity, and pretty much outside the beta amylase activity window, which means a lot of the enzymes are denatured. You may want to think about adding some gluco-amylase to help out (I have...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/what-kind-of-keg-is-this.82000/ Someone said it was for an eye-washing station.

Cheap rear-sealing faucets suck for this reason. It is inevitable they get sticky unless used often. Best solution is to upgrade to forward-sealing faucets by Perlick or Intertap.

Here's my current beer - Medusa and Azacca IPA with Omega Gulo. SG dropped like a rock. Ramping temps up towards the top end of the range to ensure a full fermentation.

Was 1.010 your FG? That comes out to ~82% attenuation. I'm sitting at ~1.010 for the last two days, from 1.060 (based on the tilt reading, which is not necessarily accurate). Krausen has dropped, and I've ramped slowly up to 75°, and airlock activity has dropped to zero. Going to let it sit...

Jaded Hydra. I spent probably half its cost making a DIY copper chiller with fittings to work with my keggle, and ultimately I get fed up with it and splurged. I over-chilled a batch this weekend on accident - that's never happened to me before.

No hop additions prior to 15 minutes; recipe is quasi-NEIPA, so boiling for 45 minutes with no hops is something of a waste of propane. I'm not looking for any major bitterness, but rather big flavor and aroma. Quasi-NEIPA because my water is too hard to replicate the soft mouthfeel without...

I brewed mine on Saturday, 4/6. OG 1.060, 9# 2-row, 2# vienna, 1# c20. 90 minute mash starting at 150°, ending at 142°. 15 minute boil; with 30g Medusa (3% AA!) to 10g Azacca (13%AA) at 15 and 5, with a 120g Medusa, 10g Azacca hop whirlpool at ~175°. Pitched a big starter (with a pint...

I have no regrets, other than spending money on 3v gear. A ratchet pulley is a game-changer as well, well worth the $7 off of Amazon.