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What ^^^^ he said. And then multiple by 1.5!

Remember -- the tape isn't meant to seal the connection, it's there as a lubricant for you to adequately tighten the fittings and get a good tight seal that way -- these are NPT not NPS fittings.

Oh I'm sure homebrewers already have a bad name for nicking kegs! I will admit two of mine came from neighbors who had them in their garages for goodness knows how long. I suppose I could have returned them to their rightful owners (in this case Miller & AB) but wouldn't even know how to go...

Sold.

@jgalati said: Man I dont want to be a dick but I'm thinking your local didn't get permission from Microstar to decommission their kegs. If you're going to make a serious project out of this, and publish it as such, at least contact Geemacher and become the rightful owner of your cooperage.

Reference?

OK. I'm getting the stink eye from SWMBO. Make me a reasonable offer and they're yours. I gotta get them outta here.

"Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes" Yes, you'll be fine.

I gotta admit I was skeptical about the whole skeeter pee thing. I made 5 gallons of it last November using EC-1118 and just about a month ago racked it from the secondary to a keg, backsweeted w/ about 6 C cane sugar and force carbed. It's damn good. I read the Monster SP Thread and the...

I'm assuming you made a mistake when you referred to your aluminum pot. Correct?

(1) 1.5" diameter 5/8" bore with set screw V belt pulley 3L, 4L or A belts (1) 5/8" fixed bore 10" OD V belt pulley one groove $45 for both including shipping. Both Congress brand. Purchased last year for mill but then decided to go the direct drive route.

+1 for the 2352. I've used the ebay/chinese versions in the past and seem to migrate back to Auber. More expensive? Absolutely. But the quality and support both from the community and from Auber makes it worthwhile.

>>and we'll also have 2" TC solder flanges since so many people asked. Excellent news!!!

Funny you post about that. I no-sparge brew and therefore heat my strike water via RIMS directly in the MLT (a picnic cooler). Last weekend my chugger started cavitating for no apparent reason. For the life of me couldn't get it to stop. Swapped to another pump and it picked up just fine. I...

@IslandLizard said: That I have found, the yellow lugs always accommodate 12 and 10 gauge wire. I've never had a problem.

That's how I thought it should be wired up, but the instructions below didnt exactly make it clear!

+1 on the lugs. I tend to get my lugs at Harbor Freight but splurged this wratchet style tool after battling with a couple of the cheapy wire stripper / crimp tool combos from Disposable Tools -- errrr, I mean Harbor Freight.

@bobby_m -- I'm curious how you wired up that switch in concert with the PID. Do you have the PID switch the "always on" leg and use the 3025 to switch between the neutral or hot line 2? And as for the swtich, the instructions leave me a bit confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I believe NEC states 80% of breaker value for continuous (define as >= 3 hours on) use. But let's face it, much of what we electric brewers do wouldnt pass inspection. I dont generally worry about capacity cap as much as I do wire size. Regardless of run length I always use 6 guage for my 50...

I'm running both web client and web server libraries concurrently on my Arduino Mega and reading from one wire. Really no need for an rPi.