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150 will do. Papers say 140, but i'll do 160 for a shorter time for better activation.

oh yeah, just deactivate. 150 i think? Now i have to check. Thanks for the reminder.

Just looking for how long the activity takes. How long would a few pills take to lower the gravity from 1.028 to 1.001. I thought about amylase, but this seemed to be easier. Amylase in the secondary seemed to be an unknown to me and too much risk for bottle bombs.

Type % of total Lbs used oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US 3 0 Maris Otter 5 0 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L 3 4 Roasted Barley 2 8 Oats, Flaked 1 8 Black (Patent) Malt 0 8 Dehusked black patent 0 8 s04 mash temp is the unknown.

So I brewed an Oatmeal stout at 1.065. Just where I wanted it, but I must have mashed way to high (have since bought a new thermometer). I've repitched twice now (with 1.5 liter starters), and it's still stuck at 1.028. It should finish almost half that. I brewed it about 6 weeks ago. So...

I've got Night Moves, which is a black IPA. I had one i named "Joey Porter" because it was a very robust porter. and then a Rumpelstiltskin which was a Russian imperial stout.

Just out of curiosity, what type of finishing yeast are you using, what was the OG&FG, and what was the rational from the LHBS to use a finishing yeast? I've had luck a couple of times with long secondary fermentations, with high gravity ales carbonating just fine. I.e. my russian imperial...

Chocolate malt is just a roasted malt. The chocolate refers to the color flavor profile of the roasted malt, not because they added chocolate. Good luck,

Yeah I agree with more bittering hops. I usually have about double the ibu's. a little more early additions and a lot more late additions.

http://www.homebrewing.org/2-Weld-15-gallon-SS-Brew-Pot_p_2756.html I've got a single weld with one of their brass fittings. It's worked great so far. Have 4 under my belt with it.

I've got a mine in the secondary right now with 2 oz of cascade for a 5 gallon batch. This looks very good. I have the same ratio of chocolate to 2 row that you have.

Black IPA (6 gallons, Feb) Marzen (5 gallons, Feb) Pumpkin ale (5 gallons, Jan) Red IPA (5 gallons Jan) 10422.3 + 21 = 10443.3

V = Vmash * (Target Temp - start temp) / (Boil Temp - T start) That's what i used for my decoction mash. If you change your boil temp, to the temp of your water, and set the volume of water to the volume of the sparge you want to do. Then all you do is solve for the "boil temp" in that...

Try starting with the complete joy of homebrewing, by papazian. I had been brewing for a couple of years, and made the switch to all-grain I read Designing great beers by daniels. I liked his book so far the best out of the dozen or so i've read. He does a great job providing nice guidelines...

excel!

I find whole leaf hops are better. Get a small grain sack, and clean everything. I tie the sack to a mug with a handle, and then dump it into the fermenter. Whole leaf hops have the glands more in tact than the pellets. I also find them easier to keep in the sack, and easier to keep out of the...

I can attest to this. I do this constantly. The only ones I really have trouble with is Shorts. I just recycle those.

yup Allspice Seeds Ingredient Flavor 2 Tbsp Ground Nutmeg Ingredient Flavor 2 Tbsp Cinnamon Stick Ingredient Flavor 1 ea Pumkin Pie Filling Ingredient Flavor 26 oz Crystalized Ginger Ingredient Flavor 1 Tbsp

i've made a couple of pumpkin. I can taste the pumpkin, and i've added them about halfway through the boil. I've also added them to the mash, mainly the non-spiced pumkin filling. The real key is spices, right at flame out. Allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon are some of the spices i've used.

I like to do a secondary just to give myself flexibility on when i bottle in the bigger beers. If you do a good job of leaving the trub off, I think that it'd be OK skipping the secondary. I've read that the longer secondary can help with covering up some off flavors of the fermentation if...