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I found my original two sanke fermenters off in the woods behind my old college apartment, emptied em out, cleaned with pbw, and I then used them for about a good 6 years :mug: They're with my old roommates now and I have since found some new kegs. You shouldn't have to do anything special at...

I just made a 10 gal batch for $20...simple blonde ale at 5% with repitched yeast and just a couple oz of centennial. The power of buying in bulk

6) Freeze the beer and remove some of the water post fermentation. Eishooch!

Blending almost anything with a little bit of stout right at the tap has always been a favorite of mine. Haven't played much with more than 1 pint at a time though.

Sent one over the email, thanks for the great show Denny (and Drew, if he's lurking...)

Count me in please! Always room for more kegs

Didn't misrepresent, I was just talking you up! And maybe using "research" a little loosely :tank: So your winter warmer attenuated to about 58% and then down to 76.5%...interesting. Could you post the recipe for it?

I can offer some advice from my recent amylase beer... 1tsp would be plenty for a 5 gal batch, you could possibly even use a little less. I used it on a beer that went from 1.051 to 1.016 and I wanted it closer to 1.010. So 1tsp enzyme and a week later it was down all the way to 1.006. It's...

Oh yeah, didn't notice that. You should make sure it's setup with your equipment profile correctly and check all the volumes in there

Don't worry about keeping it in the green. Those parameters are setup based on style guidelines, and you are trying to make an imperial version of a base style so nothing should really match, just the color. Those bars are there to assist in recipe formulation for staying true to style.

Lot of good advice so far. When you get to the tasting exam you've got 15 mins per beer, which seems like a lot but if you haven't done a lot of judging before the score sheet can be overwhelming. I would recommend looking up any local contests you can find before the exam and sign up to judge...

Adding alkalinity can combat an overly acidic stout where the pH is so low it's harsh

I think a definite conclusion from my trial is that the quantity of enzyme required is less than anticipated. I achieved a result of roughly 88% ADF with my addition of enzyme, at 1tsp per 5 gals. On the barleywine, I think I will leave one carboy as is and pitch some slurry into the other...

Altbier 1.051 to 1.016 to 1.006 after amylase Barleywine 1.106 to 1.029. No change after amylase. Barleywine was also a few weeks older than alt and in secondary.

Ok the followup! The altbier went down significantly. After 3 days it had dropped 3 points. After 7 days it had gone down 10 points! Way more than I was expecting. So my impression on it overall though, is that the malt flavor feels less strong than I remember but the overall beer is not thin...

Three 0.5oz packets? Still not a ton of hops. Even all of them at 60 minutes is probably not enough bittering. If you LHBS has them, German Magnum hops are a good choice for just bittering. You could get an oz of them and probably be much closer to your target IBU. The lagering phase is a big...

Yea it sounds like you're out of refrigerant. It wouldn't necessarily present as a sudden temperature drop, especially if you had a relatively small leak to begin with. More like a slow, painful climb to room temp.

Now, if you could fill bottles off an already carbed keg of beer...

You might have just froze up the coils, is there anyway you can get to it to take a look? So are you running the heater at all now?

I just brewed a nearly smash Vienna/simcoe. 1% chocolate malt, gave it a nice copper color. Great beer, Vienna has an interesting malt profile that totally carries it without anything else.