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Hello HBT. I added a large handful of crushed grain to 25L of 1.061 wort (100% pale malt) which has been brought to 80C for about 30 minutes then left to cool somewhat on wednesday night. I pushed co2 through with an airstone for a minute or two, capped it quickly with an airlock and I've kept...

Personally wouldn't bother. Have done a few beers with maltodextrine powder (wanted sweetness) and came to the conclusion that it didn't make much of a difference (really isn't sweet even at high amounts). I can taste 1 point of sugar, 6 points of lactose, but can't even detect maltodextrine at...

Just do what works. You can certainly put bitty wort into the kettle if you want, but if you can remove those bits prior to the kettle it saves removing them at a later stage and thus kettle fining will be more effective. I can't see any flavour positive reasons to boil bits of grain husk. When...

Very hard to say as all stages can be fluffed considerably. I started out doing extract brews (large saucepan, plastic water jug fermenter) and expanded into steeping grains/mini mash (second saucepan, bucket, mesh bag). As my boil volumes got up chilling was required so I build a copper...

I have access to 30L food grade plastic jerry cans at work so YMMV, but I drill the lids to take grommeted air locks and when I'm ready to cold crash I swap the lid for a regular one so it is sealed. Fermentation is usually stupidly slow/steady if occurring at all at this point and as cold crash...

YMMV but I'd never (rarely, but couldn't imagine a reason) mash a big beer higher than 65C because the alcohol and the typical unfermentables left over from just base malt are more than enough. Like if you assume 2 points left per 10 (typical, quick and dirty recipe assessment) with base malt...

Yes cold crash. Build it into your dry hopping routine next time out so you package as soon as possible.

Everybody has a take on it, but have you tried no/very few kettle hops? Recently brewed a beer with only 17 ibu's from magnum at 60m, but 17g/L dry hop. It works (I'd next time go for around 25 ibu's because beer is still 5.2%)

If it is a brazed copper construction don't hit it with peracetic acid or anything which eats copper!

I've got three kegs on exactly the same system with exactly the same pressure. Two pour great, one fobs up. I'm dealing with it for now, but I believe that when I strip it down I'll find hop bits in the dip tube or poppet.

We've got two paraflow heat exchangers, one for the 1,300L and one for the 2,600L kits. Apart from size they look and function exactly like the sabco one linked. They CANNOT be disassembled in minutes to clean and you've got to keep the tension very high (but even) to prevent leaks. Getting them...

I'd check the final gravity and make a judgement based on that and think just what it could be (if it is) infected with. If there is a lot of residual sugars there could be quite a lot of additional fermentation to come, though it could be very slow depending on storage temperature. This does...

It helps me to separate my thoughts on beer in barrels into two tracks. One is "I want something from the barrel" this is where you just want the bourbon or whatever was previously in the barrel, a large amount of which is hopefully going to still be in the barrel and its wood to come out into...

Depending on the beer and your storage/dispense/carbonation method you might not even have a problem even if the keg wasn't completely sanitary. Plenty of my kegs in your position would get 5 minutes of rolling at about 40psi then go into a freezer at 0-1C with top pressure at 10psi ready to...

I like to hold the keg upside down and bleed a little through the gas post, pressure release valve and then push the rest out of the liquid side because then all the valves/posts have been rinsed on the inside and well flushed with sanitiser. In the grand scheme of things, it is a minor detail...

The vast majority of 'stuff' is produced during the aerobic phase and first 2/3rds of fermentation. Honestly man relax.

I've brewed NEIPA's with windsor, london esb, so4, us05, nottingham and a house wet yeast. Biggest drawbacks with windsor (worse) and london esb (marginally better) is the lack of flocculation, it'll look like milk (which is fine) but without significant fining/cold crashing efforts can throw...

I've used it. It is sold here as a process aid called 'hopflower' though I'm sure other places retail it under different names. I believe it comes from a lab in germany and they pour it into smaller jerry cans locally. Dosage is 5-10ml per 100L. Don't know about ppm/units and doubt our supplier...

Two thirds of your extract is within the first third of your run off as a rule of thumb. Traditional methods involved no sparge so they'd run off almost the whole volume then run in more water, stir and collect the whole volume again for the small beer. In effect this is just like a single batch...

Yeah weight. Or look at the line of condensation if they are cold.