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Staying small (at least for a while) does mean more frequent brewing, more variety, and getting more experience faster...

Well - chemistry doesn't lie I guess, but I have a can of Lyle's Golden Syrup - this thread has inspired me to brew a pub ale. I have to believe the resulting flavor will be slightly different!

OK, so you have CO2 getting in the keg - is it staying in there (no leaks)? For example, if you leave a picnic tap connected, the CO2 will force its way out of the tap...If the keg can preserve pressure, idk, give it another week and see (but not at 20 psi)..?

+1 on BIAB - makes life easier IMO. If you don't already have it, the next thing I would look into is a reliable and accurate way to control temperature during the fermentation.

So - question - did you burp the kegs when you first connected the CO2 to get the air out of the headspace? Not sure that would make a diff, but maybe so...

Phew - well - that looks like a plastic valve operator knob? If yes, and if you can cut/remove it without touching or damaging the valve it's supposed to operate, you might be able to use a crescent wrench or open end box wrench to operate the valve instead, at least for this charge of CO2...

Hi and welcome. I've made this wheat beer a few times - it never turned out great in bottles (came close once) - now that I have kegs, I'll try it again for the summer! Here it is: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=35679

Hmmm - at that time and pressure, you should have had some carbonation by now (without rolling or shaking). Maybe check connections to make sure the CO2 is actually getting in the keg?

If filtering using a Brita filter works for you, then it's all good. If you were super-concerned about mineral content and making adjustments (sounds like you don't need to be if it tastes good), it would be hard to know where you're starting from without using RO or distilled water. Been...

Have made that using the 1450, and it's good. Also have a look at the Bee Cave Rye IPA (somewhere on this site) - also very good. Cheers.

Welcome - this forum has a lot of great info, and great recipes to sort through, too. Not sure how dark and stormy you want - I just brewed this Imperial ESB clone, will tap the keg this weekend, but the sample tasted great...

+1 on this advice...

That's just about right. But, other advantages to brewing 2.5g batches (for me anyway) are that all the gear goes in a few bins in the garage, and I brew more often, get more variety, and get better at it faster...

Making something like this tomorrow, in the wee hours...

Gonna squeeze this one in again before Christmas, by popular demand....went out and bought some really fresh, big-a$$ vanilla beans to use this time (my LHBS has everything a guy could want).

You might also consider Nottingham - I've used it with success for the same purpose.

Using yeast nutrient? Try skipping that, if you are. If you're starting with RO water and using Bru'n Water, those are good steps - maybe double-check the quantities of your mineral additions?

Welcome and good luck. This site has a ton of great information. Not a bad time to be a hop farmer....

What he said. SO far as I know it, Epsom salt is Epsom salt, but double check all the ingredients to make sure. I'd toss that and go buy fresh. As far as how much to add to a batch, there is no standard amount to add - that depends completely on the style of brew and what's in your existing...

Yes - exactly right. 50% of every ingredient (except the yeast). Boiled the "tea" in an Erlenmeyer, and added it, plus some gelatin, to the cold-crashed beer after I siphoned it into the keg. Came out clear, with a nice color and taste.