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You can definitely edit entries after payment.

Where is the information regarding when the varying locations judge? EDIT: NVM, found it.

Gotta agree with this. After buying the mill and setting the gap to 0.85mm (avg. credit card thickness), my numbers have been VERY consistent through about 10 batches.

If you're not dead-set on racking to secondary, I would strongly advise against it. I understand that it's a big beer with a LOT of trub in the primary but I would recommend simply cold crashing after the dry hop and packaging the beer however you'd like. As I'm sure you're aware, these big...

Something like this is what I use for purging carboys. It's very handy for that and also works well for it's intended use. Not too expensive. http://www.grapeandgranary.com/homebrewing/keg-charger-corny-kegs.html

I also use the credit card method (0.85mm - 0.90mm) making it tight enough such that the rollers move when the card is inserted (requires a bit of force to feed it through). It's a fine crush that has been yielding consistent numbers, easy lautering and no trace of the dreaded "astringency from...

I love Citra as well and have been using it extensively for flavor and aroma. Echoing what agrazela said, a big hopstand is the key to flavor and aroma. My preference is to add a big charge (usually 3oz for a 6.25G batch) in a hopstand from 170F to 160F. I found that adding hops at temps above...

Love this. IMO, anything we can do to minimize O2 uptake is worth it. There is also this interesting story regarding absurdly low DO numbers in the Alchemist's brite tanks: https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3187-advanced-dry-hopping-techniques

According to the experts and much practical experiment, the enzymes needed for conversion will be shot at these temps.

This method is a bit different than the one I use so you may have to experiment to see what works. I'm going from a 6.5 G glass carboy with a carboy cap into a sealed, CO2 purged keg.

7.5 Brix is not 1.010. Was that a typo? If not, would certainly explain the sweetness.

Sure, pushing the beer with CO2 is never mandatory but any other method will certainly pick up oxygen, the amount of which can be argued extensively. I've become a bit of a freak about oxidation because it is generally the culprit of some less-than-stellar homebrews I've tasted over the years...

I use the second method you describe and also use CO2 to push the beer from the carboy to the keg. In my opinion, it is absolutely worth any hassle you may perceive. Furthermore, with my IPAs especially, it has noticeably improved the quality of the finished product. I don't keep track of how...

I have absolutely used the keg as a secondary vessel and it's an extremely safe, sanitary and O2-free way to do things. You can either modify an existing lid to fit a stopper and airlock or you can buy one. When you've decided that the fermentation is over, simply replace the lid with a standard...

Not a water expert but your existing water looks like a great starting point, especially for lighter brews. The lime is unnecessary unless you want to experiment. A mash pH of 5.3 is ideal in my house. Dare I say, I go even lower for my pale ales.

I usually start with a pre-boil volume of 8G for big IPAs like this. On my rig, I'm left with about 6.25-6.5G after a vigorous 1 hour boil. Easily yields 5G of finished beer to the keg.

Do you have Bru'n Water? Check out EZ Water Calc if you haven't already. Have you brewed with this water and gotten good results? I don't think I would be the only one to recommend cutting this water with RO or using 100% RO mostly due to the high sodium and alkalinity. From there use one of the...

Conan actually flocs fairly well and John says as much in the oft-mentioned video. He attributes most of the haze to hop-derived compounds.

They are very similar. Regardless, Wyeast does maintain the Alchemist's "private yeast strain."

Regarding a mash tun pre-heat which becomes very important this time of year (at least in my area and for my garage brewery setup), I've found that adding a few quarts of boiling water to the mash tun while the strike water heats up is sufficient. Once the strike water is ready, I dump the water...