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I've had beers take MONTHS...and MONTHS to carbonate... be patient ...if you put 5oz of corn sugar in a 5 gallon batch it will carbonate...if everything else was done right. I bottled some brown ales once that took like 6 months to fully carbonate... they also seemed to be more carbonated if I...

Leaving the element on during mashing could be part of the problem. Brew-Dudes did a video about attentuation issues and elements during mashing. I don't use BIAB so I couldn't advise you on efficiency issues but there's plenty out there on the topic. I also have never used a Tilt...

I use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag as a hop bag...it's like a giant tea bag for hops. I just clip it to the side of the kettle and add my bittering hops...then add flameout, hopstand, etc... then I just pull the whole paint strainer bag out and let in drain for a few minutes...then rack. I just...

This is exactly what I do...I'm on 5th or 6th generation of A38, countless generation of Bell's house yeast (Imperial and bottle cultured), and just overbuilt some WY 1098... and that's just from the last couple of months. Overbuilding starters is the way to go... if you're already making...

If my conversion to F is correct those are some relatively high pitching and fermenting temps. The fermenting beer in the vessel may be a few degrees or more warmer than the ambient temp... so you could have very well hit the upper 70 or 80 degrees F.... which is too warm in my opinion for an...

What are the exact flavor/flavor profiles that you are not liking in your beer? If you can pinpoint what the offflavors are... you can start to figure out where in your process it's coming from. I see you brewed and IPA extract kit. IPA's are not forgiving beers to brew. Any flaw in your...

5 gallon all grain batches are possible on cooktops... I used to do it... and I used to run two 20 qt pressure cookers full of jars at the same time (not while I was brewing, but two pressure cookers at the same time)... those cooktops are pretty heavy duty (most anyways)... I'd def consult the...

R/O or Distilled water + Bru'n Water ... Acidulated malt to bring down the ph Baking soda to raise it... I haven't purchased a quality meter yet... so I couldn't say how accurate it is... but my beers are great... and many people say that Bru'n Water gets them very close when measured.

That should get you exaclty where you need to be.. although serving pressure depends on several factors... you need to balance your system... line lenght, beer temp, beer style, etc. Here's a good video by Legend Beer and BBQ Larry that walks you through the steps.

I get the space issue... but if you have room to store a 5 gallon corny keg... you've got room for a 5lb C02 tank... and it'll make your life SO MUCH easier than dealing with those little cartridges... and those cartridges aren't cheap. The cartridges might be cheaper in the short-term... but in...

The method I've been using is to cold crash before I keg... Then once the beer is chilled (35ish F) and in the keg, hit it with 30 psi for 24 hrs... After 24 hours, turn it down to serving pressure (12 psi for me)... The beer is usually fully carbed in a week....def drinkable within 3-5...

I'm sure some have expensive equipment but not all... but you're right... you can hit your terminal gravity on those bigger beers without adding extra oxygen during active fermentation.

1.005 FG is pretty low for an IPA... I personally wouldn't want my IPA that dry... I like a little residual sweetness. I'd say your reading of 1.010 sounds more in line with what I'd expect. The real question is which reading is more accurate... did you check your hydrometers in distilled water...

Watch this video... I did this with a Two Hearted clone that I over carbed by the shaking method... and did what this guy said and it worked perfect... I've since stopped using the shake method... I just put it on 30 PSI for 24-48 hours then turn it down to serving pressure and wait it...

I don't like to wonder if there was something that I could have done or should have done to improve my beer... so I do everything I can to provide a good envrionment for healthy fermentation... that includes hitting the wort with pure oxygen prior to pitching the yeast. Although, my motive is...

I know I could stretch it way further... which I have and do. I just like knowing that I'm starting from clean yeast every so often... it's really just a mental thing... and an arbitrary number (4) at that. Between my 3-4 favorite/house yeasts... I'm still only buying yeast a few times...

I just overbuild my starters and save yeast from that to make a new starter. Step 1) Buy yeast Step 2) Overbuild starter (if I need a 1.5L starter, I build a 2L starter and save 500ml) Step 3) Store saved starter in the fridge Step 4) Pull saved yeast out of fridge... make new starter...

I agree with that... Also if OP just opened a new box of bottles and sanitized them without washing them first that could be an issue also... just because they are new doesn't mean they are clean... there could be all kinds of nasty stuff in there that needs to be washed, rinsed, then...

Maybe I'm misunderstanding this but... you didn't soak the bottles in starsan after you washed them in the dishwasher? If so this might be your likely culprit... I'm not convinced the heat of a home dishwasher is enough to ward off all potential nasties... I would personally have still soaked...

Could you elaborate on "Oxy-powder stuff" ? Have you ever taking the spigot off of your bottling bucket... disassembled, cleaned, and sanitized it (should do that every use)? Have you tasted the beer before bottling? Did it taste okay? Is this sour taste only appearing after the beer has been...