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I use 1968 alot in my pale ales. As long as you pitch correctly you can be drinking them quickly. I do mash at 148F to increase attenuation and can get 75-80% out of it. Higher mash temps give me 65-70%. YMMV. Drops clear but does have a condsiderable ester profile. I would not try to...

damph you and your damphbier;). I am curious about the attenuation difference between these two yeast. Did you take FG readings? I have had homebrew damphbier before and found it a very refreshing summer drink. I may have to brew one myself.

Yes. Turns out fine if you give it time.

OK, this thread came up on a web search when I posted. Then I see the sticky...so I am not c [I]complete[I] idiot. Still not a definative answer in that one either.

I am going to resurrect this thread because I have the same question. I just got a few cornys from an old soda place and need to replace some poppet o-rings. Also, o-ring size for the pressure release valve would be nice too.

Apparently not entirely true. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/testing-fermentability-crystal-malt-208361/

crystal malts do not have any diastatic power. diastatic power comes from the amalyase enzymes needed to convert starches to fermentable sugars. the amalyase enzymes are destroyed during the kilning/roasting/etc. so if you used all crystal malt it would not be a mash. it would be a giant...

Adding more yeast of any kind is probably not going to dry this out. Just a function of extract brewing. I like my RIS somewhere in the 20's. The last one I did I kegged with some oak cubes and it really gave it a percieved dryness. I think that is about your only hope now.

Well, you can usually get a water report from you water company. I would not want to recommend a treatement without that information. That being said, Calcium is important for floccuation. Use Calcium Chloride for malty beers and Calcium Sulfate (gypsum) for hoppy beers. Like I said get a...