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We were brewing a 5.5% dry Irish Stout yesterday with a final batch volume of 10.00 gallons. It sounds to me through all of the posts that it may be a slight adjustment I need to make within my equipment setup and just need to add the water to top off to the estimated pre boil volume in the...

MLT is a 20 gal stainless spike brewing kettle. 13 lbs MO and 3.5 lbs flaked barley and a handful of rice hulls. Strike water volume was 6.5 gal. Sparge water volume was 11 gallons and I do use ball valves on all fittings and pumps

I’m not quite sure I agree with the issue being based on my efficiency. We reached 12 gal pre boil before we ended it due to going below 1.010. That pre boil gravity was 1.045. We were supposed to obtain 14.5 gal pre boil volume at 1.037. Had we added water to get to the required boil volume...

I really don’t think channeling is the issue as I always keep about 2” of water above the grainbed and use a sparge arm that disperses water evenly. My mash tun is a brand new 20 gal spike brewing with their false bottom so I don’t think that is the issue either. As stated before, I keep my flow...

Is there anyway to slow the rate at which the gravity drops during sparging? What has been happening is that I do not achieve my pre boil volume before the runoff gravity reaches 1.010. My sparge rate is right at 1 gal per 5 min and am not sure how to slow the rate down to achieve my pre boil...

Ok that’s starting to make sense with the first runnings and the mineral additions that they already have. Thanks for the clarification

I completely understand adding the acid to the sparge to bring that water’s pH down but what I’m not following is why I couldn’t use my pre boil volume for the “sparge” calculation if I’m adding those minerals to the actual boil kettle. In the recipe I am doing this for I have 13.36 boil size...

I am using Bru n Water and have been adding the sparse additions into the boil kettle including the lactic acid if needed. When creating my recipe I have simply been using the pre boil volume as the “sparge” volume to treat. Is this an accurate way of adding the water additions? Also, is adding...

With an alternative NEIPA style of beer like I’ve been talking about, would a “traditional” NEIPA water profile be used where there is increased calcium to keep the mouthfeel that neipas are known for or would that calcium increase diminish the hip bitterness of the C hops that would be used?

Yea it was supposed to be sugar. Oversight on my part

Every NEIPA that I have either brewed, tasted, or heard about always focus of the fruitiest hops available. I am absolutely a fan of this new style of beer but was wondering if anyone has heard of or done themselves a NEIPA style substituting the fruit hops for the traditional C hops that are...

I have tried a few attempts at making a DIPA with not all that great of results. What I have found is that they have a very sweet taste, most likely due to the higher FG. I have come up with the following recipe for a very piney, dry DIPA. Please take a look at this and let me know your opinions...

That is the holy grail! Thanks for the post!

I am looking to expand from my current refrigerator kegerator to a keezer in which I plan to store and serve 4 kegs plus the co2 tank. Does anyone have experience as to what cubic footage is needed to achieve this, i.e. 6.9, 7.7, etc? I realize every manufacturer will have a slightly different...

I typically brew ales that are lighter in color and per your suggestion would benefit from both mash and sparge additions. If, however, beersmith is only giving me totals for mash additions how should I go about dividing the total minerals into mash and sparge?

I use BeerSmith to formulate all of my recipes and typically load the water profile for the beer style I am brewing from Bru n' Water into the water profile tool in BeerSmith and have the software calculate the adjustments for me. This works great, however there are a few limitations I am seeing...

First try London III yeast. Bump up the adjunct to around 20%. Lastly increase your whirlpool and dry hop addition particularly dry hopping during active fermentation. Hope this helps

20%

I brewed an NEIPA a month or so ago and am already drinking the second keg of. My grain bill is as follows: 75% 2-Row 18.8% Flaked Wheat 3.1% Crystal 10L 3.1% Crystal 20L This beer turned out really well, with the color and mouthfeel that I was going for. The biggest change I will make next time...

I recently brewed a NEIPA that turned out very good. I used a vast amount of oats and 2 row malt but was wondering if using 6 row instead would be a better option since that style of malt is more appropriate for higher adjunct brewing. I have looked at many different NEIPA recipes and no one is...