Search results

The yeast that they do use is?

Oh **** Well well well Did a little more research. Notice the little inkjetted 21013 on the yeast packet? Read this: http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/wordpress/coopers-kit-yeast/ 21013 means the yeast mas packaged ... on ... the ... 210th day of 2013...JULY 30th of 2013!!! Those asshats...

The people at my LHBS are nice, friendly, and helpful; however they can be a bit chaotic and sloppy at times. I was interested in brewing an Australian Sparkling Ale and asked them for a yeast - they said they didn't have any, but they would take the yeast packet from one of the Cooper's kits...

Rather than providing what the directions for the brew were and what the calculated values should have been, can you summarize what the actual measured variables were? Obviously there is a discrepancy between the targets and the actual (as evidenced by the low OG).

What was your goal for original gravity? I am on about my 6th AG batch, and rather than try to figure out what i am doing wrong - i am just trying to figure out how to fix it. I measure post mash OG (pre-boil) with a refractometer, and it is consistently low. So i just boil 30-45 minutes or so...

No Wyeast equivalent? Its really weird that this specific style has essentially a "proprietary" yeast source.

Is Cooper Ale Dry Yeast the only true option? Or can we use something offered by Wyeast? Link to style guideline: Australian Sparkling Ale FWIW, my recipe below (took some significant liberties with respect to stye): 72.5% Maris Otter 20% 6-row 2.5% acidulated malt 2.5% caraamber...

I know my grill isn't sized for 50lbs of meat, so i am not sure if it will hold a pot + 6 gallons of wort.

I restarted 4 years ago. Brewed about 50+ batches. I am still a beginner. I am afraid that if you stop being a beginner, then you stop learning and developing. I was a beginner at extract for the first 30-something batches. Now i am a beginner at all-grain. I was a beginner at bottling for...

I think that the minerals that are left in the hot water tank is mostly calcium carbonate, since it is less soluble in hot water than cold water.

It's a 1-GALLON batch. Beersmith tells you that your pre-boil volume should be 1.4 gallons. If for some reason after removing bag and grains you have less than 1.4 gallons, it tells you to add more. After boiling you will lose some of the 1.4 gallons to evaporation, let's say 0.2 gallons...

I NEVER EVER use hot tap water. Your hot water tank has all sorts of minerals in it that significantly alter your water chemistry. Even if you have really pure cold water, your hot water tank will add undesirables minerals. Your technique seems really unconventional, how do you figure your...

i am adding all the water in with the grain during the mash.

I don't know the answer to your question, but i do know the answer to a different question: What can i do if my post-mash gravity is lower or higher than it is supposed to be? If your post mash is lower, you can do one of two things: 1) you can add dry malt extract. One lbs adds 45 points per...

Dear HBT BIAB Brewers, I am wanting to do some small 1-gallon BIAB batches. Normally I do AG 5-gallon batches. The purpose of doing smaller BIAB batches is: - shorter brew day - can do it on stove top, instead of outside - test out different yeasts - test out impact of mineral...

Buy a 6-pack of a bottle conditioned wheat beer (should be available within a 10-mile radius from just about anywhere) Harvest the yeast. Propogate. Build starter. Pitch. Or just dump 3 bottles into your wort and hope for the best...

I suppose an "or" is more convenient than an "and" in this case.

As a follow up poll. Of those who participated in this poll - is the main cook in the house a male or female?

The British started the English language, and the Americans finished it...

Did you do a starter? Did you oxygenate? I would expect these to finish in the 20s. Curious why you didn't use any British style grains.