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I wouldn't try to reuse yeast that has been soaking in Starsan solution. You could instead remove the top of your fermenter and scoop some of the krausen from the top into a sanitized jar, and make a starter from that. If you are using a carboy as your fermenter, I'd wait until the beer...

Also, in John Palmer's book he says you do not want to introduce oxygen to hot wort. You want to cool it down to pitching temp before you aerate. Dumping cold water into the hot wort would probably introduce oxygen before the wort is fully cooled, which could cause staling reactions later on...

Holy Bejesus, is that for a 5 gallon batch? 25.5 total ounces of hops thats over 1 1/2 lbs of hops. I'm just speechless...and thirsty. EDIT: Oops this thread is almost 3 years dead.

hmm that's pretty gross. Well if you are looking for grain with a higher protein content.... lol

So if I'm doing a PM BIAB method, and I'm using that Deathbrewer guy's method (mash kettle and sparge kettle, then combine the two), where/when should I steep my specialty grains? Should I just throw them in with the mash or should I steep them in my sparge water for 1/2 hour and remove them...

Quote from John Palmer's book How to Brew p. 115 "Exposure to sunlight or flourescent light will cause beer to develop a skunky character, which is the result of a photochemical reaction with hop compounds and sulfur compounds. Contrary to popular belief, this is not a character that...

But the instructions say to steep the grains at 150-160 for 1/2 hour, which is the correct temp to get the sugars out.... am I missing something?

Well I Wiki'd Fluorescent bulbs. They do indeed produce some UV light, although not nearly as much as sunlight. It says that a typical fluorescent bulb will produce as much UV rays in 8 hours that you would get from the sun in 1 minute. But still, I would rather be safe than sorry. So I...

Wait a sec, I thought this applied ONLY to sunlight. If you have a flourescent bulb on in the room with your carboy and no outside light coming in, is this a problem?

aeration = good (you do this just prior to pitching yeast) oxidation = bad (when oxygen is introduced to beer during or after primary fermentation) You oxidized but not enough to hurt it.

Well it's possible that you didn't get the maximum amount of sugars from the specialty grains. I know I was guilty of this my first time around, I tied my grains too tightly in the muslin bag, which trapped some of the sugars in. Also, I've been watching brewingtv.com and what they do is...

Dry hopping is when you add hops directly to the fermentor once fermentation is complete but prior to bottling/kegging. It adds additional aroma and flavor to your beer, some of which got boiled off during your wort boil. Dry hopping is especially popular with "big beers" or beers with high OG...

Wow that's a good idea too. Keeping it all Columbus. Ahhh decisions decisions.

All 3??? Wow you're quite the adventurous type. I've heard Cascade is really good, I think I'll do 2 oz of them. I'm a noob at this so I don't want to get too crazy with it. Small steps. Thank you for the advice.

But how much? 1 oz or 2 oz? I will be using pellets.

Can anyone recommend a good type of hops to use for dry hopping my IIPA? I am brewing the Brewer's Best IIPA kit, which included 2 oz Columbus bittering, 1 oz Columbus flavoring, and 1 oz Columbus aroma. Here is a link to the brewing directions...

I'm from Pennsauken NJ, right over the Betsy Ross Br. Don't know of any clubs, but I've got a few friends who brew (and this website) and that's good enough for me.

haha well that's fine, I was just looking for ideas anyway while making sure I don't screw up my brew. the kit was $60 :O Since I haven't graduated to kegging yet, I think I will wait until 3 weeks in the primary, throw in a couple ounces of hops, wait another 2 weeks and bottle. Thank you all...

Hmmm it seems the consensus is to do dry hopping with IIPAs. After about 3 weeks in the primary can I just go out buy like an ounce of Cascade aroma pellets for example, tie it loosely in a muslin bag and just toss it in the primary for the remaining week? Think that would do the trick?

I'm not going to dry hop or add anything additional. Would you still recommend bulk conditioning in a secondary? I'm trying to produce a beer with a superior flavor, since my last batch (Blonde Ale) came out rather unimpressive. If that means waiting an extra month to drink it, I can. I...